Places

Sequim, WA
Moab, UT
Ithaca, NY
Outer Banks, NC

Out of the Box in OBX

Previously, on Travels with Jake and Stone, readers who were able to remain sentient after reading the post(s) will remember that they had “followed the snow” up in Ithaca, NY, only to apparently bring it back with them to New Jersey. Not only did it snow almost immediately upon their return from Ithaca, but the subsequent weeks in Jersey witnessed a stretch of truly cold weather, several skiffs of snow and one or two true snow storms. The last storm was the most potent, measuring about 5-6 inches and actually gave the school kids a snow day. The snow also made Jake and Stone delay their travel plans for visiting the Outer Banks of North Carolina for a week and a day, so they left (accompanied by Mom) not on March 2^nd, as planned, but on March 10^th. How nice that retirement gives such flexibility.

Day 1 – March 10, 2009. The trip down dear old I-95, and then onto Route 1 and 13 southward, was a pleasant enough drive. We stopped for lunch in Salisbury, MD, at the Market Street Inn. Though the weather was rather dull, the riverside setting was still enjoyable, and the food -- especially the cream of crab soup and fish (rock) & chips – were terrific. And there was a nice wine-by-the-glass list as well.

Jake, Stone and Mom had arranged for lodging at a 2BR furnished “cottage” in Manteo, on Roanoke Island. The cottage, named Endless Summer (cf. the 1966 movie; a surfing motif enthusiastically dominates the décor), is virtually brand new and crafted to a high degree of finish. The woodwork and tiling is professionally precise, and with a granite counter top in the kitchen and 3 flat screen TVs, the cottage is stylish indeed. If one were forced to lodge a complaint about the cottage it would be that it is more stylish than comfortable, but then again, there were plenty of plush towels, 2 comfortable queen beds, and a welcoming bottle of local wine, so we all three agreed that Endless Summer was a welcomed sight at the end of each day’s doings.

The first night’s dinner was at Basnight’s Lone Cedar Café, a large, upscale place with a lively bar, a good view of the Roanoke Sound and wonderful seafood. In fact, Jake nominated his broiled grouper to his personal Seafood Hall of Fame, and claims that his judgment was not clouded, but only make only more clear!, by the offering of pre-dinner champagne by the class and an accompanying glass of a delicious Russian River chardonnay. Mom and Stone liked their fish as well, but curbed their enthusiasm, as it were; after all, Stone was scheduled to drive home and Mom’s Lincolnesque four-score-and-seven years of experience have most likely taught her the value of the long-considered decision.

Day 2 – March 11, 2009. We had been warned by radio, TV and the locals that this day was going to have the best weather of our 3 full days in the Outer Banks. So after a home made breakfast of bagels and such in the granite and stainless steel kitchen, Stone dropped Jake off at the Nags Head Golf Links, then drove back to Manteo to pick up Mom and headed up Roanoke Island to the Elizabethan Gardens. The Outer Banks in early March is not on your typical vacation itinerary, but it can recommended if one seeks to avoid crowds, or even small groups, or even anyone else at all! Mom and Stone had the lovely and formal gardens virtually all to themselves that morning, and though they both wished they could see it all in full summer bloom, still the sculptures, the Great Oak, the manifest camilla flowers and learning a bit of the history of the famous Lost Colony made for a splendid morning stroll. After the gardens, Stone and Mom shopped a bit at the waterfront back in Manteo, then found lunch at the Full Moon Café to be just right.

Back on the Outer Banks proper, in Nags Head, Jake enjoyed his round of golf in virtual solitude also, just the way he likes it. The price of admission was little high, $65, and the lack of pull carts was an irritant as well, but no golfer can stay irritated for long once he is lucky enough to par the first hole. The course is rather short, but still demanding, with two or three long carries off the tee, more than a couple of blind shots, and quick greens. Nags Head Golf Links enjoys a sublime setting, right along side the Roanoke Sound. Indeed several holes border the water and those views are inspiring. However such inspiration is seriously mitigated by the hundreds of houses that too often hijack the course’s windy beauty. Like most golfers, Jake would rather play in a park than a neighborhood. However, this “neighborhood” has a 19^th hole grill room with a good selection of cold beers, better than average food and a sweeping view of the sound, so all might be forgiven.

An old friend, Best Babysitter, has found herself a temporary job with the US Park Service, and we meet her at her rented apartment in Kill Devil Hills around dinner time. She looks great – being outdoors all day obviously agrees with her – and feels blessed to have found a job she likes in a setting she adores. We all four walk the maybe 700 feet from her place to the beach and stare at the miles of The Simply Gorgeous. Dinner is at the near by Flying Fish Café on Rt 158 and turns out to be yet another good meal of seafood and wine.

Day 3 – March 12, 2009. The weather predictions had been right and we awoke to find an overcast day with temps in the 40’s, and some rather serious wind. Stone and Mom decided to brave the elements on foot and walked the half mile down to the waterfront for breakfast at Poor Richards, which proved to be adequate, and at least gave cozy comfort from the bluster outside. Later they did a little shopping, the best part of which was discovering Endless Possibilities where the purchase of hand crafted items made from recycled materials aids community causes. A not-to-be-missed in Manteo.

Overcast, cool, breezy? Sounds like a Jake golf day and he headed off to Duck Woods Country Club, the course he was most looking forward to playing. Duck Woods did not disappoint. A nearly empty parking lot augured for a good day of golf.. While hunting for the pro shop Jake was impressed by the truly “country club” atmosphere of the clubhouse as it seemed to be classy without being snobbish – but then one can only guess so much by a brief survey of furniture and window views. At the pro shop Jake was happy to learn that $50 would get him on the course and, unlike Nags Head, a snappy 3-wheel pull cart was included. Jake liked Duck Woods a lot, even with its seemingly omnipresent water hazards, which have always made him tighten his grip and his swing. The houses on the course, being few and usually obscured behind mature trees, were not intrusive at all, and despite the sometimes cold wind and the many balls that now “sleep with the fishes,” Jake greatly enjoyed his round.

Back at Endless Summer Jake ventured up the on-site tree house, which was pretty cool -- until the wind started to really blow! After an afternoon of inside relaxation we all 3 went out for a local dinner at Darrell’s, which we had noticed previously seemed quite busy. But our experience was generally disappointing. Darrell’s might be better in season and for a family with kids on a budget, but it didn’t work for us that night.

Day 4 – March 13, 2009. The weather demanded indoor activity, so we all headed to one of three North Carolina Aquariums, this one only a short drive up Roanoke Island about 3 miles from Manteo. The aquarium’s setting is waterside and seemed very nice, with sculptures, benches and places for kids to play, but the cold and rain kept us from looking around the grounds completely. We got in just in time to see a “dive show” in the main tank filled with local fish, including several small sharks, where attendees can ask the scuba divers questions; quite interesting. We then passed a pleasant 2 hours or so in this small but interesting aquarium. We especially enjoyed seeing the seemingly comatose alligators basking beneath their heat lamps, and then experiencing the opposite ends of aquatic mobility as we watched the slow motion turtles which were right next door to the quick motion river otters.

We passed another afternoon of relaxing, TV, reading and a little snooze here and there, then picked up Best Babysitter for a final dinner out. We were hoping for something special and the Blue Point Bar and Grill proved to be just that. Located a good 30-40 minutes north of Manteo, in Duck, this restaurant has a view that can make you feel as if you’re on a boat at sea, seafood that is done just right, a good wine list, dedicated service, and an ambiance that promotes conviviality. Upscale and not inexpensive, Blue Point can be highly recommended.

We passed on desert and coffee at Blue Point and went back to Best Babysitter’s apartment in KDH (local talk for Kill Devil Hills) for some carrot cake and decaf. It was a great way to end a nice little getaway to the OBX, where being out of season (March, not July) and a little bit out of the box (staying in Manteo rather than Duck, Nags Head or Kitty Hawk) proved to be just fine.

Day 5 – March 14, 2009. On our way home we had a wonderful lunch of fresh fare at the newly opened (8 months) Acorn Market in Salisbury, MD. It’s a fairly small place with a good selection of panini, soups, salads and sandwiches. Acorn is a good reason to get off the highway.