Goldilocks, North Carolina

Another anniversary, another trip. For Jake and Stone, 32 years seems to have flown by in only 30, or maybe 31 years, so they were looking for some place new and special: It had to be drivable, offer some golf, some walks, good food, and be not too hot and not too cold; it had to be just right. Goldilocks turned out to be the Pinehurst area (where?) of North Carolina.

Tuesday, January 24, 2012 – Their only disappointment happened before they left NJ. Their promised Prius rental from Lawrence Toyota didn't materialize, so they got a less gas-efficient, but very nice Toyota Camry at a reduced rate. Having long ago decided that they would travel I-95 only at the threat of being pistol whipped, they headed west and down I-81 to Lynchburg, VA, for a nice lunch at the Depot Grill. Jake especially enjoyed his Caesar salad, which was highlighted by fresh, shaved cheese. This restaurant, which sits down at the edge of  the James River next to the “live” RR tracks, is at the bottom of one of the several steep hills that dominate this interesting looking southern town, and can be recommended for good food and service.

Source of the fresh eggs

Having left home at 6 AM, and gotten their necessary local Dunkin' fix on the way to the interstate highway system, Jake and Stone rolled into Southern Pines, NC, after a fairly leisurely, if long, drive at around 5 PM. Their accommodations proved to be quite wonderful: spacious 2BR, brand new kitchen, fireplace, sheltered patio, private entrance, and – what's this? a dozen eggs in the fridge and a note from their hostess saying the eggs were from the chickens up on the little hillock out back. Jake and Stone had planned to eat breakfast out, but the fresh eggs prove too tempting and too delicious, and made for great breakfasts.

Dinner that first night was at one of Southern Pines' several very good restaurants, Ashten's. Of special note from the menu was the yellow fin tuna and the martinis. (But then, Jake and Stone have rarely met a martini they didn't like.) Ashten's is not large, but has both a restaurant area and a pub area. We enjoyed the pub (where we could witness our martinis being shaken), and the food is the same in both venues.

Wednesday, January 25, 2012 – After their egg-centric breakfast, Jake and Stone drove into Southern Pines to see it in full daylight. Later, Stone took a nice 4-mile walk in Weymouth Woods, a nearby Sandhills nature preserve. Weymouth has a nice, modern and friendly visitor center, good, well-marked trails, the chance to walk alone through soaring pine trees, and the possibility of seeing the red-cockaded woodpecker, an apparent must-see for dedicated birders.

So classic it looks good in B&W

While Stone walked among the pines, Jake did the same at Southern Pines Golf Club, where he played with two guys from Canada down in Pinehurst for “the season.” Established in 1906(!), this Donald Ross classic is somewhat similar to the above mentioned woodpecker, in that golf aficionados will drive hours just to see and play its historic rolling hills, admire its terrific hole routing, grumble at its typically devilish greens, and grin all through the day. Highly recommended. 

After their respective pine-infested walks, and back in Southern Pines proper, Jake and Stone prepare for dinner at “home” by having some pre-dinner nibbles and drinks at Swordfish, a brand new fish eatery across the street from Ashten's. Here the highlight was the wood-fired grilled octopus, though the Greek meatballs and baba ganoush were good as well. Worth a look-see, especially for seafood and Greek inspired treats.

Soaring pines at Midland CC

Thursday, January 26, 2012 – Up early on a morning that was cold (34 degrees) but warming quickly. Jake and Stone got some java at a cute little coffee hut (a little bit bigger than a toll-taker booth on the NJ Turnpike) called Pony Espresso, then took an early morning stroll through Sandhurst Park, a small, local park next to a housing development. Back at the ranch they had another egg-centered breakfast, then off for the morning's activities. Jake played the 9 holes at the Midland Country Club, which despite being part of a 55 and older real estate development, proved to be a good walk on pine-lined fairways and a fun course to play. Especially at the price of $12. Stone had an even better price (free) at the Sandhills Horticultural Gardens which has about a dozen separate little gardens, lovely paths, and sculpture and art displays.

It was time to finally go into the town of Pinehurst, which bills itself as the birthplace of golf in America, and is basically a town dominated by golf and the Pinehurst Resort. Undoubtedly the biggest, and likely the most historic hotel at the resort, is the redoubtable Carolina Hotel, within the precincts of which Jake and Stone had a nice lunch in the Ryder Cup Lounge, which was not nearly as stuffy as one might imagine. After some window shopping at the “the village” of Pinehurst (a five minute walk from the hotel), they walked (about 30 minutes, but a lovely stroll among historic cottages, B&B's, and some large, but sequestered homes) to the Pinehurst Golf Course megaplex.

Our favorite twosome

Here is the famous Pinehurst No. 2 course (there are 8 courses in all), a bronze statue of Payne Stewart (he won the US Open at No. 2 in 1999), the iconic “putter boy” sculpture (that is actually a sundial) that sits beside the biggest putting green Jake had ever seen, a very large golf pro shop with some really expensive items, and the Donald Ross Grill, where Jake and Stone got some drinks to sip as they partook of the putting green view from the pub's expansive veranda. After a walk back to the Carolina, it seemed they were just in time for tea and cookies in the lobby. They sat and sipped and munched as if they belonged.

For their anniversary dinner, Jake and Stone had a wonderful meal at Elliot's on Linden, in Pinehurst. A stylish place, with a nice wine-by-the-glass list, and an emphasis on local fare, it proved to be just right for their celebratory dinner.

Friday, January 27, 2012 – The Sandhills area of North Carolina is most famous for its golf, but the Sandhills also boast America's oldest continually operating pottery community. Seagrove, NC, is the center of an area that has potters who can trace their craft back through eight or nine generations. In Seagrove proper, and all along what is termed “Pottery Road” (Route 705), there are nearly 100 individual potters and their shops.

Hickory Hill Pottery

Though many of the smaller potters were closed for the season, Jake and Stone found two places where they bought some pottery. The first was Hickory Hill Pottery, a rather inexpensive shop off the main road that seems to be run as a sort of lifelong hobby/passion. The second was Thomas Pottery, a more professionally run shop that had some very nice (and more expensive, but not crazy expensive) pieces and was right on Route 705.

Back in the Pinehurst area, Jake again played 9 holes (for $12)  at Midland Coiuntry Club, this time with Stone walking along and occasionally giving advice on how to properly putt the ball into the hole. When challenged to do better than Jake, she did so several times -- but their marriage survives. On the way back home, they stopped in at the Mid Pines course, where Jake happily found out he could make a tee time for early Saturday morning, and that Stone could also walk the historic course with him.

No. 3, par 3, Mid Pines Golf Course

Saturday, January 28, 2012 – Jake and Stone arrived a little early for their 8:27 tee time at Mid Pines Golf Club only to be informed by the golf pro that things will be delayed due to a “frost delay.” (Jake saw no evidence of what Jersey golf courses would call "frost," but thought that perhaps down here the bar is set a little lower.) The pro said they should be able to get out at around 9:30, so Jake and Stone decided to search for a full breakfast in Pinehurst. Saturday mornings in late January find this village-like town to still be slumbering, but our couple stumbled upon the Villager, where breakfast is indeed being served. This little place was full of locals (because it is the only breakfast place around?) who nod and shake hands with each other, and served a really nice, fresh breakfast. It got crowded after Jake and Stone sat down, and it seemed like the kind of (small) place that can often get so, but no one seemed to mind waiting.

The apparent frost had apparently melted away as our couple returned to the Mid Pines course for their morning of golf and walking. To their happy surprise, they were the first ones out on the course and walked and played their 18 holes alone. Mid Pines is the sister course of its more famous neighbor, Pine Needles (which hosted the U.S. Women's Open in 1996, 2001 and 2007), but its being in the shadow of the more famous venue allows Mid Pines to be played by everyday players at reasonable costs. It dates from 1921, is revered as a rare, unchanged Donald Ross classic, has a first-hole view (elevated tee, distant green set on a little hillock, a wide fairway framed by Georgia pines) that makes one feel lucky to play golf, and a continuing beauty and hole-variety that is most memorable. It's impossible to not have fun, no matter the score. 

After their golf and walk, Jake and Stone had a very nice lunch at Sweet Basil back in Southern Pines, which proved to be as good (and popular) as advertised. They did some shopping, shared an ice cream on a bench in the sunshine by the train station, and enjoyed the passing scene. Their final dinner was back at their home-away-from-home, then it was up in the morning to begin the drive back north. They stopped for quick visits with old friends the Farleysteins and Da Labetts in Virginia, arrived back home around midnight, and went to bed smiling.


And a postscript: Fans of Roger Miller's music, please note the picture below and sing along:

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