Steeling Away

Thursday, July 11, 2013 -- Some years ago, when Jake and Stone were anticipating the advantages of retirement, the ability to steal away for a short break on short notice was near the top of the list. So when they realized the Mets would be playing in Pittsburgh in a few days, they decided to go.

The drive to the Steel City via Interstates 287, 78, 81, 76 and 376 proved to be more pleasant than it sounds and better than they thought it would be. The Pennsylvania Pike had some lovely stretches through the Allegheny Mountains and the usual summer road construction was minimal. Jake and Stone knew Pittsburgh to be a city of rivers and bridges, but they were happily surprised by the city's terrain. The city proved to be quite hilly, with some semi-distant slopes being either forested in green or festooned with housing, often with apartment buildings or a church or two perched on the upper ridges.

Plaza-Side Dining in Pittsburgh

Enjoying perhaps one of the the best entrees into Pittsburgh, they first had lunch at the Porch at Schenley, a park-side neighborhood bistro which sits on the edge of the expansive green grass of Schenley Plaza. Jake's garden harvest salad/lemonade and Stone's veggie burger/glass of wine were all delicious, and the bistro vibe was friendly, cosmopolitan and quite "college town." From their al fresco table they could see across the grass -- upon which both small children and college students frolicked in the sunshine -- two of Pittsburgh's many impressive landmarks: the Carnegie Museum of Natural History (reputed to have a dinosaur collection to rival any) and the University of Pittsburgh's 42-story Cathedral of Learning (the name pretty much says it all).

In the Phipps Butterfly Room

Had the weather not been at least okay (and "okay" is a rare event in this Summer of Their Discontent, as Jake and Stone both lament the seemingly constant jungle-like heat and humidity), they would have gone to either the museum or the "cathedral," but since it was bearable walking weather they headed to the nearby Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Garden. Here they wandered among the world renowned collection of flora, set amidst various little ponds, statuary, art installations, small waterfalls, and -- a room full of butterflies! At Phipps everything is top-shelf, from the LEED-certified Welcome Center to the helpful staff and brochures. Even the shop has stuff that is interesting.

The weather was not so wonderful that they could also tour the extensive outside gardens, so Jake and Stone drove to their B&B, the oddly named Inn on the Mexican War Streets.  (Yes, they wondered also. It seems this neighborhood was established by General Robinson after the Mexican-American War (1846-48); several of the streets have names of battles or generals from the war.) Due to their last-minute decision to visit Pittsburgh, the only available room was the Red Room, which is the inn's smallest. This room is without a window, which must be why the owners term it "romantic." Still, the reduced space proved to be worth the reduced price.

Porch at the B&B

The inn's strong points include it overall "character," which is properly Victorian without being the least bit musty. The architecture is quite striking, and the large porch is delightful. Breakfast (continental, adequate) is available in a room too small to properly serve all the guests at once, but being originally "the gents' smoking room," and having been nicely restored, it is very cool nonetheless. In a city without a lot of B&B's, this one also enjoys a convenient location right on the Allegheny Commons, very near the National Aviary. The immediate neighborhood is at once a little bit sketchy, certainly historic and quit interesting. The award-winning Olde Allegheny Community Gardens are but a few minutes walk away from the the inn and are certainly worth a walk through.


Dinner on this Thursday night was in the seemingly upscale Pittsburgh neighborhood of Shadyside, at Soba, a certainly upscale Asian-fusion eatery with necessary valet parking. Here everything is what might be called Zen-spare. The wait staff are all in black. The furnishings and design look as much Scandinavian as they do Asian. On their table, beside the silverware carefully rolled into a gray cloth napkin, Jake and Stone each find a dark, small, smooth stone.... The Stoli martinis were very crisp and cold;  the appetizers, rock shrimp tempura and grilled baby octopus, simply fabulous; Stone's green bean & eggplant and Thai corn chowder, very nice. The only dinner misstep was Jake's Thai style pork & shrimp fired rice, and here it was Jake's fault. His tolerance for "spicy" is just too low to always allow him to appreciate this genre of food. BTW, the ice cream sandwich desert, good in any genre, was spot-on. $101 before tip.

Since it was early yet, and our couple was feeling somewhat frisky (must have been the Stoli), they headed for downtown Pittsburgh. Parking proved impossible, so they ponied up $8 for a lot spot and went is search of additional friskyness. Olive or Twist provided a good nightcap of  drinks and music. Especially the music, where someone named Tom Lagi held court with his guitar while someone named Katie Simone joined him for some grand vocals. Such talent going so unappreciated is sadly universal in the world of bar music, but Jake and Stone felt lucky to have been there for an hour or so. (Though their guitars were electric that night, here is a video of them doing some acoustic covers.)

Friday, July 12, 2013 -- In the Gilded Age Pittsburgh was just lousy with millionaires. And several of the very gilded millionaires built mansions in East Pittsburgh. Andrew Mellon, George Westinghouse, H. J. Heinz, Andrew Carnegie and Henry Clay Frick all built their urban dream homes in what is now the Point Breeze neighborhood, but only Frick's "Clayton" still stands.

The relatively small mansion stands as the centerpiece of the expansive Frick Art & Historical Center. The docent-led tour ($10-$12) of the mansion takes about an hour, and is highly recommended. Clayton reminded our couple of Maymont, another Gilded Age mansion they toured while in Richmond, VA. Considering their cost and number of rooms, both homes are surprisingly homey. But Clayton, with its obvious attention to the needs of the Frick's children, is even more so.

The Frick Center also includes Frick's charming personal greenhouse and the imperial looking, somewhat imposing, art museum. But perhaps the most visited attraction at the Center is the Car and Carriage Museum. Jake and Stone only had time to breeze through the many turn-of-the-century carriages and cars, but were very impressed with the variety and accessibility of all the vehicles. Two favorites: the 1901 Knox Model A, which looks a little bit like a very tricked out tricycle. And  the  1914 Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow,
which is how Jake would roll if given the chance to make a Rap video.

We interrupt this Blog to bring you this impossible video vision: Notorious B.I.G. driving the above 1914 Silver Shadow,  while rapping Emily Dickinson (she is so easily chanted!) as he slowly tours the West Cemetery in Amherst, Mass:
           Because I could not stop for Death,
           He kindly stopped for me;
          The carriage held but just ourselves

         And Immortality. 

Part of the reason Jake and Stone could give so little time to the classic cars and carriages was the need for lunch. And that need was more than satisfied at the nearby Belgian bistro, Point Brugge Cafe. A truly neighborhood place, Point Brugge boasted a grand selection of beers and, just as importantly, that Belgian gift to the world -- frites. Our duo split a side of frites. Stone had the PEI mussels and a glass of pino grigio while Jake munched on a tasty macaroni gratin, "helped" Stone with her pound of moules, and greatly enjoyed a draft Carlsberg. A wonderful repast, and proof positive that this stylish cafe is deserving of its TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence for 2013. And all for $40, before tip.

A Full PNC Park in Pittsburgh

The evening and this brief Pittsburgh trip were topped off that night by going to PNC Park (but a 20 minute walk from the inn) to see the Mets play the Pirates. StubHub proved to be a good source for "last minute" tickets and Jake and Stone had good seats. The stadium was rocking with a sold-out crowd on a tee-shirt giveaway night. PNC Park is comfortable and picturesque, with especially nice views of the bridges and the city's skyline. Even though the Mets lost in 11 innings, it was a wonderful night of American baseball in this most-American city.

Our traveling twosome drove home early Saturday morning knowing they had only just started to enjoy Pittsburgh, and knowing also that they would soon return.

Other Places

Careful What You Wish For

Cold, Misty, Windy -- Not Exactly a Kodak Moment

Before leaving Central New Jersey the weather had been downright summery on both Tuesday and Wednesday with temps in the sultry high 80's. So Jake & Stone were anxious to find some place cooler for a pre-Memorial Day trip away. While visiting their daughter over the years at her college in the Rochester (NY) area, our couple had grown  increasingly fond of the region, and this seemed like a good time to re-visit. Surely it would be cooler up north by Lake Ontario. On arriving Thursday morning, they found the weather to be similar to that they had hoped to escape, but things were soon to change....

Thursday, May 23, 2013 -- The drive up to Rochester was typically uneventful, and the views from I-81 near Cortland, NY, were as peaceful and panoramic as they remembered from their previous trips. The weather was warm and windy, but rather pleasant all-in-all for their first planned activity -- a walk through Rochester's Highland Park.

The Colossus Magnolia

Despite their several trips to Rochester, Jake & Stone had never visited this historic park, laid out by Frederick Law Olmsted (of Central Park fame), which includes a little reservoir and a conservatory where tulip bulbs were on sale for $2 a bag full. The 155-acre park is a planted arboretum highlighted by a large Japanese Maple selection, many horse chestnuts, and over 35 varieties of magnolias, including the Colossus Magnolia. But the park's fame rests mainly on its over 1,000 (not a typo!) lilac shrubs which are the focal point of the annual Lilac Festival. And though the festival had ended the previous weekend, there were still enough lilacs in bloom to fill the breezy air with hints of its perfume, and our duo had a wonderful stroll around this hilly, most-worthwhile urban park.

Near the park is the Distillery, a good enough place for lunch, and most likely a very good place to watch sports on the many TV screens. After lunch Jake & Stone checked into the Rose Garden B&B, which proved to be a good B&B, though our couple was disappointed in their small room (the Asian Orchid room), as it was without a closet or an available outlet for a computer or phone, and had virtually no table space. The other rooms looked bigger, but then for $115 a night Asian Orchid was not a bad deal. The host and hostess were very accommodating, the public rooms were nice enough, there was a very homey front porch, and the breakfasts were very good indeed.

Though the room was small, the bed was big and inviting enough to seduce Stone into a little afternoon read-and-nap while Jake took his bike for a ride. The B&B enjoys a good location very near Maplewood Park and its large Rose Garden. Right off the Rose Garden is the Genesee River Trail, which Jake rode downstream for a couple of miles despite rain forcing him to hunker down under a bridge for about ten minutes. This part of the trail was quite nice, and offers a cement spur down (rather steeply) toward the river which leads to a pedestrian bridge over the water with good river views. On the other other side of the river (up steeply again) it's possible to quickly bike to the Seneca Zoo, which looked inviting to Jake, who had the will but not the time.

Rochester has a storied place in minor league baseball that dates back to 1899. The current iteration is the Rochester Red Wings, the Triple-A farm club of the Minnesota Twins, and on this night Jake & Stone went to see them play the Charlotte Knights at Frontier Stadium.

"Fan" is short for fanatic (aka: crazy?)

The Weather-Channel-promised cold front had only just started to change the weather when they left the B&B for a pre-game dinner at Nathaniel's sports bar. (They preferred the Distillery's ambiance, though the food at Nathaniel's included a surprisingly tasty catfish dish.) But by the time they had settled into their box seats ($12 each, game-time purchase, 6 rows behind the first-base dugout), the cold front was manifest. By the third inning, it was cold, windy and starting to seriously mist. Our duo persevered, seeking shelter when the mist became rain for a couple of innings, then finished the game standing here and there around the stadium in search of leeward wind barriers. The game concluded happily for the several hundred fans left in the 9th inning, with the Red Wings winning 4-3.

Wanting to reward themselves for persistence, Jake & Stone went looking for a place to have a drink. The streets of Rochester were wet and dark, even the main avenues. Finally, through a mist worthy of Sherlock Holmes' London, they spied the Hyatt hotel, which provided shelter from the storm, a good looking bar and even better looking martinis. "Well," Jake said, clinking Stone's glass, "we did wish for cooler weather." They smiled and drank up.

Friday, May 24, 2013 -- Rochester was a 19th-century American hub of industry, and the city's business

Lower Falls

depended greatly on the Genesse River which provided the power to
run the mills and factories. Indeed, the river still provides hydroelectric power to much of Rochester. The Genesse River also provides Rochester with several picturesque waterfalls as it flows through the city. The most dramatic waterfall is the Lower Falls, which can be viewed by walking over the Driving Park Avenue Bridge.  An excellent view of the river as it cascades down the High Falls can be seen from the pedestrian bridge that starts right off Platt Street and crosses the river to the base of the Genesee Brewery on the other side. Jake & Stone weathered the windy and slightly misty walk, enjoying the virtual solitude on what is usually a busy tourist sight.

High Falls View

At the end of the bridge going toward the brewery sits the Genesee Brew House, which includes a souvenir store, tap room, restaurant and "brewery tour." The quote marks are needed as the tour is not a  tour of the giant brewery next door, where about 600 people currently produce a whole range of Genesee brews, but rather a tour of a sort of mini-brewery that mimics the giant one next door. Jake & Stone took the 30/40-minute tour (hourly on the hour) and found it interesting if not particularly thrilling.

Time to Take Flight

Upstairs in the Brew House is the restaurant and our duo had a fine lunch there: shrimp soup and salad for Stone; bacon cheeseburger and chips for Jake. But perhaps the best part of the lunch was the offered flight of beers -- four tastings delivered on a wooden plank --  $7. Good food, good drinks and lots of fun.

With some hours to fill before dinner (and the weather still arguing against a hike or bike ride) Jake & Stone drove down to Pittsford where for old times sake they drove around Nazareth College, where their daughter --  Sweetness! -- was such a star. Then they went to see The Great Gatsby, which turned out to be much better than either of them had expected.

Dinner was also in Pittsford, at Aladdin's on the Canal. There they rendezvoused with a friend, now a professor at the University of Rochester, who had like Jake, graduated from far-away Boulder (Colorado) High School in 1965. (Strike up the "Small World" music.) The three of them passed a pleasant time beside the darkling Erie Canal over a bottle of wine, octopus salad, pine nut salad and beef, basil pesto with beef, pignolia pasta and shared desserts. All for under $100.

nota bene: for those of you kind enough to have read some of Jake's fictional work and think his work nice but sometimes "unnecessarily sesquipedalian," please see this book by his dinner companion and fellow BHS grad: Nilpotence and Periodicity in Stable Homotopy Theory. Suddenly, Jake's prolix prose seems almost simple, hunh?

With the night still young and the weather still rather inhospitable, Jake & Stone finished off the evening with yet another movie, the type of which (that is to say, "not block busters") they don't often see in suburban Jersey: At Any Price with Dennis Quaid. It was showing at The Little Theatre in downtown Rochester, a good place to see independent and off-beat movies.

Saturday, May 26, 2013 -- The weather was still cold and windy, but at least the sun was out. Jake had hoped to play golf at Ravenwood while Stone did some hiking, but they decided instead to do some husband-and-wife golf at Latta Lea E-Z Golf, a par-3, 9-hole course that measures about 1,000 yards.

Stone Taking it E-Z

Latta Lea turned out to be the perfect place for Stone to play as she is very much a beginner, and this course caters to those still learning. In fact, in front of them were two groups of four -- two (probable) fathers and their two young sons, followed by a mother/grandmother and three young girls. It was soon evident that the youngsters had never/rarely swung a golf club before, so things went slowly, which was fine for our duo, especially since no one was behind them. Stone hit two balls off every tee and then suffered the tutelage of Jake honing her wedge and chip play with three or four balls on every green.

Jake hasn't played a lot of quite short golf courses, but Latta Lea was by far and away the best he had ever seen. The overall condition of the course was very good, and though short, the 9 holes are set it a lovely park-like setting with water hazards and even challenging elevation changes. For what it offers, especially at a price of under $10 each, Latta Lea is highly recommended, and both Jake & Stone greatly enjoyed the morning.

Lunch View at the Pulneyville Grill

Latta Lea is in the northern suburb of Greece, NY, and as such it is less than a mile to Lake Ontario. Waterside dining is often disappointing as the food is often secondary to the picturesque location, but that is not the case at the Pultneyville Grill. Jake & Stone loved everything about this stylish, lake-view, upstairs eatery and bar on Lake Road in Williamson, NY. Their lunch of lobster fritters (the hit of the meal), shrimp cocktail, veggie wrap, BLT panini and glass of wine was the best meal of the trip. With a view of the nearside docks and the farside whitecaps on Lake Ontario, and a bill of around $50, it was a wonderful afternoon repast.

Stone at the Edge of Lake Ontario

Having taken the "express route" east (aka: Route 104) from Greece to Williamson, they drove back toward Rochester on the two-lane Lake Road. This route affords a nice drive in this orchard-dotted countryside, with Lake Ontario, and its many lakeside homes just about always in view. Jake & Stone even found a park that let them get up close and personal with still wind driven Lake Ontario.

Back at the B&B it was nap time, then back to Frontier Field for some more Rochester Red Wings baseball. It was still pretty cold, but the box seats were still cheap and close to the action, the Red Wings won again, and as a bonus, after the game the evening was capped by a fireworks show. As the smoke cleared from the field, a full moon rose over the downtown skyline. And the Man in the Moon seemed to saying, along with crowd, "Ohhhh!"

Driving home on Sunday morning, Jake & Stone realized that they would finally get the nice, cool weather they wanted -- at home! But they took solace in knowing that the weekend weather had been perhaps even more stormy in Jersey. And then, even in the cold, rain and wind, Rochester didn't disappoint.

Other Places

Hamlets on the Hudson

Wikipedia states that Staatsburg (NY) is a hamlet, that this hamlet is located in the northwestern corner of the town of Hyde Park, that this hamlet is bordered by the Hudson River, and finally that this hamlet has a population of 377. Cap "H" Hamlet is of course history's most famous Dane, and Jake claims more than a splash of Danish blood, so why not spend a couple of nights celebrating his birthday in the surrounding precincts of this hamlet called Staatsburg? Oh -- there is a nice little golf course there also. And there is no place like the first tee on any golf course to once again think to oneself: To be or not to be, that is the question.

Executive edition:
Best food -- Apple Pie Bakery, Me-Oh-My Pie Shop, Santa Fe
Best golf -- Dinsmore Golf Course
Best walk -- Poets' Walk Park

Friday, April 26, 2013 -- One of the rare joys of Jersey is its proximity to the Hudson Valley. Jake and Stone left early and in a little over two hours from Jersey Turnpike's Exit 9 were sitting down to breakfast at the Bread Alone Cafe in Rhinebeck, NY. The ride up the Pike and the NY Thruway was easy enough, and the Kingston-Rhinecliff Bridge afforded wonderful views of the Hudson River and the Catskill Mountains. At Bread Alone the breakfast was good but not inexpensive (two coffees were $5) and the scene very casual, mixed and local.

Dinsmore Starter Shack

A mere 10-minute ride south out of Rhinebeck on US Route 9 is Dinsmore Golf Course, an 18-hole layout that dates its original nine holes to 1893, which makes it the third oldest course in America. Jake had looked forward to playing Dinsmore ever since he and Stone accidentally discovered it on a winter's day trip to Dutchess County. The course didn't disappoint.

Dinsmore's Up and Down

Operated by New York State, Dinsmore is a real good deal. Jake, a proud senior, paid only $16 to walk the course. And Dinsmore provides a very good, rather testing walk, with a lot of up-and-down. The course itself is quite scenic, providing a user-friendly layout with no water hazards, reasonable  bunkers, and generally wide open holes. Still, the rolling topography of Dinsmore is more than occasionally challenging. Though the day proved to be warmer (low 70's!) than Jake's Danish blood would prefer, he still left the course most happy to have played it. Though it's likely to get busy and slow in the summer, Jake played it alone on this Spring day and finished in just over three hours.

Rocky Trail by the Hudson

Just south of Dinsmore is Margaret Lewis Norrie State Park, and it was here that Stone got in her nature walk while Jake played golf. One of the several trails in the park goes right along the Hudson. This trail was often rocky and hardly a leisurely walk, but Stone didn't mind, and was rewarded with wonderful river views. She also discovered some stone "ruins" and even more intriguingly, this monument to Lewis Gordon Norrie, who died in 1923 and whose mother was "The" Margaret Lewis Norrie. A little research uncovered a "Roaring '20s" tale worthy of Scott Fitzgerald:

The Pittsburgh Post-Gazette Of October 14, 1923:

What Happened in that Merry All Night Party Which Brought Almost Instant Death to Norrie, the Princeton Polo Star, and Nearly Killed Multi-Millionaire Ryan's Young Granddaughter

"It was three o'clock Sunday morning and two big automobiles with a merry party of well-known, rich and fashionable young people were flying along Main Street on the outskirts of Asbury Park, NJ. The curtains were drawn and merry peals of laughter bubbling out of the rushing cars. Smash! The second car had tried to pass the first car...." See here for the complete and sensational newspaper story.

One of the main attractions of this part of the Hudson Valley is the CIA -- no, not that CIA -- the Culinary Institute of America. Located in Hyde Park, this school's picturesque campus is home to several highly praised restaurants, all of which are a difficult reservation, except for the Apple Pie Bakery and Cafe, which is a wait-in-line place. Arriving around 2PM, Jake and Stone thought they might miss the lunch rush, but such is the reputation of this café that they still had to wait for about ten minutes. However, once seated and served (you place your order at the cashier, have a seat and then are served) Stone loved her soup and salad, and Jake praised his lunch choice as the perhaps the best grilled chicken sandwich ever. The atmosphere, the service, and the food all made for a truly memorable lunch. Not to be missed.

Hyde Park's most famous resident was of course FDR, and his home is right up the street (Rt. 9 again) from the CIA. But Jake and Stone opted instead to visit the Vanderbilt Mansion which is right up the street from FDR. The Vanderbilt clan built over 40 mansions during their time of opulence, and this 54 room number was the smallest of them all. Jake and Stone strolled the grounds and admired the Hudson River views until the time arrived for their 4 PM tour. The 40-50 minute tour itself was better than most of these types of tours, in that the group was allowed for a while to explore on their own each of the three visited floors before the National Park Service guide gave some historical background and answered questions. Like Maymont in Richmond, this 54 room "cottage" was not an overwhelming space, seemed "liveable," and was interesting to see.

A short drive away, Jake and Stone checked in at their B&B back in Rhinebeck to refresh before dinner. This B&B was in a nice enough private house in a pleasant setting, but it was not so wonderful that they could recommend it.

Dinner was back in Hyde Park at the Hyde Park Brewing Company. Being Friday night, the place was jumping and our couple had to wait for a table. Luckily, they found space at the large, noisy  and busy bar, had two good and cheap ($8/each) martinis which they finished just as a table opened up. Jake's fish and chips had better chips than fish, and Stone's steak dish was good enough, but the hit of the evening were the PEI mussels (appetizer), which were perfect. The service, at the bar and at the restaurant, was a pleasure.

The Par-5 #13 at Red Hook

Saturday, April 27, 2013 -- Red Hook Golf Course was on the schedule for Jake on this Saturday. Red Hook is a semi-private club, so Jake had to wait till public tee times opened up after 10 am. The course starts out rather plainly, and Jake can be forgiven for thinking Red Hook just another real-estate-driven layout. However, after hole #4 the condos faded away, and the front nine turned out to be pleasant enough. The back nine holes were quite a bit better, with #13 and #14 providing plenty of challenge, while also providing a feeling of being out in the country. In Jake's view, the course suffered from too many doglegs, and though there is some elevation change, Red Hook lacked the drama of Dinsmore. Still Jake thought he got his $35 dollars worth of Saturday golf.

Hudson & Catskill View From Poets Walk

While Jake had his ups and downs on the course, Stone had nothing but "ups" at Poets' Walk Park, a beautiful little park that borders the Hudson. FDR's Delano family roots actually go back to the Pilgrims of the 1620's, and it was the Delano family who cooperated with the Astor family in the mid-19th century to create Poets' Walk as a series of  "outdoor rooms." Today the park offers tranquility, about 2 miles of walk paths, river views, small wooden pavilions, a footbridge or two, and benches from which to admire it all. Legend has it that poets (from Washington Irving and William Cullen Bryant to that poet of prose, Jack Kerouac) walked these sylvan lanes, so feel free to do as Stone did, and bring along some Irving (or even Keouac) to read. Quite (and quietly) wonderful.

Lunch on this lovely Saturday afternoon was at the Me-Oh-My Pie Shop in Red Hook. Of course, pies and pastries are the main thing here, but Jake and Stone's al fesco lunch was so good they remember the details: New England Clam Chowder; a salad of greens, apples, celery, pecans and Romano cheese; a "little bite" of beef with caramelized onion and horseradish sauce on a piece of bread; and another "little bite" of zucchini and goat cheese. Under $22. Excellent.

The day's physical activities ended with a tramp through the woods of Tivoli Bays Wildlife Management Area in Tivoli, NY. Finding the desired trailhead off Route 9G was not easy, as for some reason it was unmarked, but once found the trail was clear enough. The trail itself was often rocky and no easy stroll, but it did provide a nice bit of serendipity in that our duo stumbled onto the rear of Bard College's Performing Arts Center, where the nearby ample grasslands allowed students to do the apparently still-in-vogue collegiate pastimes of Frisbee-throwing and guitar-playing/singing. Had the weather not been so splendid, surely these young academics would have otherwise been working hard at the books inside their dorm rooms!

The day ended with yet another wonderful meal, this time at the Santa Fe restaurant in the small town of Tivoli, NY. Indeed, this capacious and convivial place is so popular that on that Saturday night it seemed the town's population would instantly double if one counted this restaurant's patrons. The food can be properly described as Mexican Haute cuisine: the guacamole, Calamari with some sort of Mexican sauce, shrimp salad, and pork tacos were all fresh, delicious, and memorable. And the ice cream (local, from Jane's of Kingston) was real good, deadly real good. The Santa Fe is highly recommended.

Another reason to love the (lower) Hudson Valley and the little hamlets of Staatsburg, Red Hook and Rhinebeck? The drive home Sunday morning (albeit with an early ETD of 6:15AM) was a snap.

Other Places

The New Confederacy: Jefferson, Snead & Hollywood

Needing another troika of days away, our duo headed south to the Old South's number one city -- Richmond, VA. Generally, they avoid I-95 with the fervor of drunks avoiding the water wagon, but the direct route offered by the East Coast's worst interstate was just too tempting. Just south of DC, in the precincts of Dale City and the commercial wonders of Potomac Mills, they were soon reviewing the definition of the verb "rue" to see if it would suffice for their dark mood. Indeed it did. Still, all things must pass, even on I-95, and after a delay of stop-and-stop-and-stop-and-go traffic they were able to make it at long last to Virginia's capital.

Thursday, March 29, 2013 -- Having left just as "rosy-fingered dawn" was painting the eastern Jersey horizon, even with the delay they pulled into Richmond just in time to get some of the last luncheon offerings of Sally Bell's Kitchen on West Grace Street. Sally Bell's dates from the 1920s, though its decor and attitude is more modern -- think 1950's. The offered box lunch is as charming and unique as the single-room atmosphere, which is overseen by mature southern ladies who are quite charming themselves.

Our duo had planned to have their box lunches (sandwich, potato salad, half deviled egg, wafer with walnut and cupcake) in the nearby Monroe Park, but the weather proved to be more Jersey Spring than Virginia Spring (overcast, cool winds, hints of rain), so they enjoyed their vittles in their B&B which was just a short drive uptown.

The Kensington B&B is a small, comfortable place, with elegantly decorated common rooms overseen by a friendly host. Our duo stayed in the separate Carriage House which would perhaps be better enjoyed by twosomes looking for... shall we say, "romance"? Our duo, having gorged on romance earlier in their decades together, found the studio room nice enough and deemed it certainly sufficient, but missed a comfortable reading chair and a bigger bathroom, and found the channel operation of the little TV to be often inscrutable. Still the Kensington can be recommended -- attractive prices, good location, reliable and easy to get on Wi-Fi, very nice breakfasts, and private parking.

James River in the distance

Veranda at Maymont

Energized by the box lunches, our duo took a quick drive to one of Richmond's most popular sites  --Maymont , a Gilded Age mansion dating from 1893. Being pre-Spring, even here, in the geographic top of Dixie, the expansive and fabled grounds (best viewed from the veranda) could only be imagined in their better-season splendor, but not so the 33-room house. The house tour is very worthwhile. Most interesting is seeing the rooms still full of the collected art, furnishings, dishes, lamps, etc, that were the everyday surroundings of the Dooley's, the childless couple who lived there until the 1920s. Both Jake and Stone were struck by how livable the house seemed.


Leaving the mansion just as it closed (5pm), our couple hoped to do two things: find a drink and get a haircut. The need for a drink is self-evident (and should have been included in the "Self-evident Rights of Man," as outlined some time ago by a famous Virginian), but a haircut? Ever since she got dynamite haircuts some years ago in places as diverse as Liverpool, Florence and Sequim, Stone likes to get her hair cut in shops distant from Jerseylicious, where she usually gets not only a great cut but also picks up on some of the local vibe.

They headed to Carytown, a part of Richmond termed by the Chamber of Commerce as a "Mile of Style," but it might also be described as an urban retailing district full of small shops and eateries. More certain of finding a good martini than a good cut, our adventures stumbled upon (and they had yet to have a drink!) a venue that provided both martinis and an upscale coiffeur. Karina's salon was able to fit Stone in if she could wait some 20 minutes, and the bar at Cstreet Restaurant offered a perfect environment in which to wait. Stone's call to the chair came earlier than anticipated, so the hairdresser suggested she bring her martini with her. Properly and proudly bald, Jake stayed at the bar, finished his martini, then tasted a Macallan single malt (only $10 for a generous pour), and passed the time happily conversing with the not-yet-busy restaurant host and another (not-bald) barfly.

Such serendipity augured well for the rest of the evening, and indeed, after a brief respite at the B&B, Jake and Stone had a nice "gastro-pub" dinner at the Magpie, where the chef disclosed to Jake that he happened to have received his training in Jake's hometown of Boulder, CO (termed "America's Foodiest Town" in 2010 by Bon Appetite).  The Magpie offered interesting and good food, nice drinks, good service, and a cool room. Back at the B&B sleep came easily.

Friday, March 29, 2013 -- There is plenty of history in Richmond, including golf history. In 1949 Jake's favorite old-time golfer Sam Snead won his second PGA Championship at the Heritage Country Club, about 10 miles north of downtown Richmond. The course was subsequently acquired by Henrico County, renamed the Belmont Golf Course, and now everyman-golfers like Jake can walk where Sam walked. And best of all, the course is pretty much the same as when Sam played it. Belmont is a A.W Tillinghast design, and the Tillinghast Association web site states: Today the public can essentially play the same course over which Sam Snead won the 1949 PGA.

Belmont is a short course with 13 par 4s, three par 3s and only two par 5s, and no hole measures more than 504 yards from the back tees. But the meandering streams, seemingly omnipresent and often deep-faced bunkers, and heavily contoured greens give everyone their money's worth -- even more so if, like Jake, you can get the senior rate and pay a mere $24. Belmont must be one of the best bargains in "historic golf," and no golfer should visit Richmond and miss it.

While Jake tried in vain to mimic Snead's silky swings, Stone meandered through the 280 acres of nearby Bryan Park. It was too early in the season to see the azalea gardens in bloom, but the terrain is varied, with several nice walking trails, and the 100 year old park sports some history, including the site of a planned slavery insurrection in 1800 known as Gabriel's Rebellion. 

After their walking adventures, Jake and Stone headed for Dots Back Inn, which is less than a mile from Bryan Park. Dots was featured on the Food Network's Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, and has become, as it bills itself, "a destination diner." Even arriving after 2pm, the end of the lunch rush was still evident as they had to wait several minutes for a table. Once seated, Dots lives up to its rather sassy rep. The food is good, but the atmosphere is perhaps even better: Local, with a capital "L." You can't be in a hurry to eat at Dots, but who wants to be? Dots is not to be missed.  (At the cash register you can sign your credit card charge with the provided ballpoint promotional pen which gives the phone & address of Dots and this (most sassy) statement:  "We've upped our standards... Now up yours!")

Hollywood Cemetery and James River

 It's not often that a working cemetery gets a lot of visitors, but that is the case with the 135 acre Hollywood Cemetery whose winding paths traverse a hilly, picturesque, hillside location overlooking the wide rapids of the James River. The grounds are so expansive that it is suggested visitors drive rather than walk, and for $1 a map and suggested driving route can be obtained at the cemetery's office. The heavily treed cemetery is simply bursting with funeral statuary, fortress-like mausoleums, obelisks tall and short, and even a giant stone pyramid in memory of the thousands of Confederate Soldiers buried here.

President Monroe's "Birdcage"

But most impressive is the list of famous people interred here, including Presidents James Monroe (who gets an impressive, if rather flamboyant, iron tomb nicknamed the "Birdcage") and John Tyler (who gets what must be the tallest obelisk around), Jefferson Davis (who gets a statue and a large garden setting), and Confederate Generals George Pickett and J.E.B Stuart. Burials are still available here "for a most reasonable fee," obelisks probably not included.

Our duo finished the evening with a dinner at La Parisienne, a downtown bistro that does most of its business in the mornings and afternoons with the business crowd. But Jake and Stone found the dinner quite satisfying, and walking to the restaurant from the car gave them their only view of the tall office buildings of downtown Richmond.

Saturday, March 30, 2013 -- The spring weather that they had hoped for finally arrived on Saturday. After another very nice breakfast at the B&B, shared with two young Danish women who were next to visit Williamsburg, Jake and Stone put Belle Isle in their sights. On the weekends especially, you must arrive fairly early (before 9 AM to be safe) to get a parking place on Tredegar Street beneath the Robert E. Lee Memorial Bridge. From the parking area the unique pedestrian bridge to Belle Isle is boldly visible, suspended on steel cables beneath the giant bridge above.

Suspension Bridge to Belle Isle

Walking the suspension bridge itself, which dangles quite high (but very safely) over the James River, is a thrill itself as geese, ducks and cormorants fly about beneath. Once on the island, most walkers/bikers/runners head on the trail to the right, but Jake and Stone headed left and were rewarded with a view of the Richmond skyline and a quiet, solitary amble through the bushes and trees.

The main trail basically goes around the 54 acre island and could be easily walked in a hour, but most everyone lingers here and there to see the remnants of a granite quarry, an iron milling factory and foundry, a hydroelectric plant, and most haunting of all, a civil war POW camp where thousands of Union Soldiers tried to survive often brutal conditions.

But the main attraction of Belle Isle is the fields of large smooth rocks between the island and the mainland where no one seems to be able to resist a bit of rock jumping, and several hearty souls (on the quieter south side of the island) could be seen sunning themselves. On the north side of the island (taking the trail to the right off the foot bridge) are two sets of rapids, and a nice view of Hollywood cemetery across the churning water. Jake and Stone, who always enjoy a good walk, found Belle Isle to be belle indeed.

Back at the B&B they looked for a neighborhood place for lunch and found (thanks to Google Maps) Chiocca's, virtually around the corner on Belmont Avenue. On the sidewalk outside this easy-to-miss deli/bar was a chalkboard sign that said, with a wonderful economy of words: "Eat Meat."

Inside our duo found another local scene to match the wonders of Lucy Bell's and Dots. Chiocca's seems to be part college hangout (Virginia Commonwealth University dominates a good portion of Richmond), part local pub, and all sandwiches and brew. Their less-than-spacious booth had ripped seat covers and a beat-up table, but this hardly mattered in this semi-rathskeller sort of old mom-and-pop place, as the service was friendly, the sandwiches tasty and big, and the beer selection in both bottles and tap more than ample.

Statue of TJ in Upper Lobby

If there is a polar opposite to Chiocca's it is The Jefferson Hotel. In 2001, Forbes magazine called it the best hotel in America, and it is one of the rare hotels to receive both Five Diamonds from AAA and Five Stars from Mobil. Now over 100 years old, this Gilded Age icon demands a visit. Glamorous, historical, gracious, and just downright beautiful, the hotel's lobby is ringed by polished marble pillars and has a sweeping staircase said to have inspired the slightly more famous one in Gone With the Wind. No less than twelve presidents have stayed here -- from Harrison to Obama -- so it seemed like a good enough place for Jake and Stone to rendezvous with the Labetts, good friends down from their DC-area home for an afternoon/evening visit to Richmond.

After three martinis and a craft beer at TJ's, the bistro/lounge just off the hotel's lobby, our duo-turned-quartet headed to Carytown for some walking, window shopping and perhaps a snack or two. On this Saturday before Easter the sidewalks of Carytown were very busy, so it took little more to get this foursome out of the crowds and into the Secco Wine Bar where they sampled some tasty Mediterranean cheeses and meats, accompanied by a bottle of Spanish wine. Secco offers dozens of wine-by-the-glass as well as nine or ten beers, and is an unassuming place (not always the case with "wine bars") with a welcoming, relaxed atmosphere.

Dinner that night was at Chez Foushee, a well-thought-of and well reviewed-restaurant in downtown Richmond on Foushee Street. The restaurant's room is simple but classy, and our quartet enjoyed the attentive service, the excellent food that is not limited to French fare, and the nice selection of wines. One of the best things about Richmond (the relative low cost of just about everything) was evident here as well, as the bill was under $50 a person. It proved to be a wonderful way to end a wonderful day.

After wishing the Labetts a safe journey homeward, Jake and Stone returned to their B&B, rose the next morning to another fine breakfast in the quietly elegant breakfast room, and then headed back to Jersey. The Easter Sunday traffic caused them to detour westward off I-95, thus increasing their mileage home, but at least they were constantly moving rather than debating the merits of a lane change in crawling traffic (that would, once accomplished, inevitably prove to be the wrong choice), or trying to appreciate the countryside when traffic was completely stopped. And, once off I-95, the extra hour on the road home let them happily review their three-night visit to Richmond, which they agreed was very rich indeed.

Other Places

Double-Trey in Boston's Back Bay

Having survived yet another year of wedded bliss, for their anniversary #33 (double-trey) Jake & Stone decided that Boston would fit the bill. Not able to do a whole week as last year in Pinehurst, they sought a destination within a four-hour drive that might have stuff to do inside should it be cold. And cold it turned out to be. Daily high temps in the teens and a wind chill that made "chill" a misnomer of understatement. But they are of hardy/foolish stock and decided to look on their wind-tunnel walks through town, carefully scheduled to never be longer than 25 minutes, as salubrious.

Thursday, January 24, 2013:  Careful to avoid I-95, their more northerly route from Jersey proved to be less direct but more relaxing. Parking in the center of Boston is always an issue, but they found Bestparking.com a help, and found a convenient garage that sheltered their car for three nights for $61 total. 

Just Wind Chillin'

Shelter for themselves was provided by the Inn at St. Bololph. What they liked most about the place was the ideal location (two minute walk to Prudential Center) and the stylish rooms. The inn seemed virtually brand new, the little kitchen area was well stocked with urbane glasses, dishes, etc, and the BR area could be closed off with pocket doors. Style was the focus here -- modern and minimalistic, it could be accused of being cold, but Jake & Stone found it rather cozy. This inn is not for everyone, however. The rooms must be booked by credit card and the cancellation policy is pretty severe. Regular maid service isn't provided. There is no "front desk," per se, and entrance to the inn and to the rooms is done by codes punched into a keypad. The staff (never more than one person, in a basement office, but friendly and helpful) can be easily summoned if needed , but overall the feel here is of apartment living rather than that of a hotel or B&B. Jake & Stone both found this atmosphere enjoyable as it reminded them of earlier days in their apartment on the edge of the fondly remembered Gramercy Park in NYC.

The inn's interior amenities were all top-flight -- great bed, nice bathroom stuff, sensible lighting, and most importantly, Wi-Fi that was easy, fast and reliable. On the negative side, the TV was rather finicky (and didn't have the Golf Channel, which threatened to send Jake into withdrawal until he figured out how to see Tiger and the guys on his laptop), one morning the hot water didn't work (management was aware of it and working on it), and the provided continental breakfast is housed in a rather small room, with an espresso machine that does all sorts of wonderful espresso, but no good old American java. (Part of the inn's "style" it seemed.) Overall, Jake & Stone were most happy with the place and would stay there again.

Dinner that night was at Piattini, 226 Newbury St, which was an 11 minute walk from the inn: http://goo.gl/maps/0CEuQ. Piattini bills itself as a "wine cafe" and its wine-by-the-glass ($8) selection was outstanding. Especially appreciated by Jake & Stone was a small business-sized card  that accompanied each glass of wine so they could recollect: "just what was that wine we had?" A good idea more wine bars and the like should emulate. The food (eg, small scampi $12; fusilli primavera $20) was good as well.

The main event that evening was "Pop Rock Live" at the Berklee School of Music's Performance Center, but a four minute walk from Piattini:  http://goo.gl/maps/iM1JE. The show highlighted Berklee students doing covers of pop rock classics, from Aerosmith (note this) to Bonnie Raitt to Michael Jackson. Berklee being one of America's top music schools, the show was a terrific show of musical talent, and it was especially cool to feel the vibe in the room -- students, family and friends clapping wildly for their fellow students and performers.

As a nightcap on their way home, our duo had two nice vodka martinis (Chopin $13; Stoli $11) at the bar of the nearby 40 Dalton Street in the Hilton Boston Back Bay. (BTW, on the bar TV the Knicks were playing (and about to beat) the Celtics; J&S rooted in wise silence.)

Friday, January 25, 2013:  Feeling the need for a breakfast that was more than continental, Jake and Stone crossed the street to the eminently convenient Thornton's, for a good breakfast of eggs, toast and several cups of American Joe.

The Daughters of Edward Darley Boit

It was a brisk but doable walk to the Boston Museum of Fine Arts: http://goo.gl/maps/NN7Qq. First on the list to see were some paintings by John Singer Sargent. In the new Art of the Americas Wing Jake & Stone discovered no less than about a dozen paintings by this prolific artist. The highlight (and the biggest Sargent work on display) was The Daughters of Edward Darley Boit which was wonderful to see in person. But what made the experience even more special was that the painting was displayed with two giant blue-and-white vases left and right of the frame -- the very vases in the rather haunting painting! Jake and Stone spent quite some time in the new wing and can recommend a visit to see that wing alone. They also went downstairs into the museum's lower level to see an exhibition of photographs by Mario Testino, the famous fashion photographer. Stone had a better appreciation of the photos than did Jake, but then she knew many of the subjects, while Jake could recognize only a few -- but he did spy Tom Brady. They also had a drink and snack at the museum's Garden Cafeteria which was both relaxing and classy.

The main event of the evening was a hockey game at Boston College between the BC Eagles and the University of Maine Bears. Dinner was planned for 5:30 at the Metropolitan Club which, according to  Jake's careful planning, was very close to the BC campus and the hockey arena. However, his misreading of the Green Line subway map got them on the wrong side of the rather expansive BC campus, and they had to double-time it, asking students for directions all the way, to the Conte Forum where they picked up the tickets. Then, with the aid of Stone's trusty I-Phone mapping abilities, they hustled again across the cold and hilly campus to the restaurant, making it only 30 minutes later than planned. The food (eg, bowl of clam chowder $12), drinks (Chopin martini $15.50(!)) and atmosphere were very nice.

Seats at the Glass

Even with taking a cab from the restaurant they still got to the hockey game late and found BC behind 1-0. No one expected this to last as BC is the defending NCAA champions and rated #3 this year. However, the tide never turned and BC lost, in a shocker, to Maine by a final of 4-1. Still, Jake & Stone had a great evening. Their seats right at the glass ($20 each, weeks ago purchase) provided them with a view of the game that let them appreciate the speed and athleticism on display. A couple of years ago, on an anniversary trip to Kingston, Canada, they had seen a Canadian minor league game and were surprised at how much better these college kids were. The BC Pep Band, the crowd, the game, all made for a memorable evening.

Taking the correct Green Line back to the Back Bay, they had wanted to have a drink at the Top of the Hub, but it being Friday night the place was jammed with those damn out-of-towners, so they headed on back to their stylish, cozy place on St. Bololph Street. By now the snow, merely hinted before, was now active enough to grace the city scenes in wintry garb.  A great night for sleeping.

The Boston Public Library
(aka: "Stone" and Marble)

Saturday, January 26, 2013:  Breakfast again at Thornton's, where there was a short wait for a table. Then it was off for a guided tour of the Boston Public Library. Their tour guide was engaging, friendly and knowledgeable, and the hour-long tour was fun and educational. The library is an architectural masterpiece by Charles McKim with murals and art work by several artists, including John Singer Sargent. 

"Get Poor Charlies off the MTA!"

Thinking they had earned their Braving-the-Wind-and-Cold Badges, our duo opted for the "T" as a way to get quickly and easily down to the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum.  The Boston subway's easiest way to travel is by "Charlie Card," available at the several ATM-like machines at each stop. As Jake suspected (being old enough to remember seeing the Kingston Trio on TV), the Charlie Card is named after the folk hero of the song by the Kingston Trio. See here for details, via the munificence of YouTube.

The Gardner Museum is but a five minute walk from the Museum of Fine Arts, but is an altogether different experience. Isabella Stewart Gardner was a collector of art of all sorts, and seemingly a good deal of her 2,500+ collection is on display here, in what was at one time her home. It is a unique experience to wander through all these treasures displayed exactly as she wished, and the courtyard alone is worth the price of admission. Still, by the end of their walking, Jake & Stone felt slightly overwhelmed by the chock-o-block art. This is a place perhaps best enjoyed by artistic omnivores.

However, two things at the museum can be recommended without qualification. First is another Sargent work, El Jaleo, which, it must be admitted, is displayed with an artistic eye almost the equal of the artist's. Not to be missed. Second is the Cafe G. For many years now every major museum has had a cafe, and often the food is less than artistic, the service less than inspiring. Happy to say, Jake & Stone found the whole scene at Cafe G to be simply great. The food (eg, soup $9; 2 coffees $7), the service, the room, the wine (glass $10), even the bottled water, were all delightful. Also not to be missed. But sign up early before you are hungry.

For their anniversary dinner our Couple of the Year headed out walking again (the winter wind having abated to just a brumal breeze), this time to Hamersley's Bistro, officially in South Boston, a 15 minute  walk from the inn:  http://goo.gl/maps/NtLPX. Hamersley's is a well regarded restaurant and it lived up to its rep --very good food (eg, haddock $28; pasta $21) with proper bistro ambiance and service. This restaurant also does the right thing. When the waiter-suggested half-bottle of wine was not truly what they wanted (he said the reisling was dry, but it didn't seem that way to our celebrants), there was no trouble ordering a different half-bottle (fume blanc $29) and paying for only it. And when their anniversary desserts didn't really work, the waiter noted their half-finished plates and told them (unprompted) that there would be no charge. No wonder Obama stopped here when he visited Boston last year.

Sunday's checkout at the inn was a breeze, as there was no checkout! Like all the guests, Jake and Stone just packed up, jumped in the car, and were quickly on the Mass Pike headed home. But their anniversary was still being celebrated when they stopped, as they always do, for some good old Dunkin' Donuts coffee. Their Styrofoam cups clicked silently in the car as they toasted each other one final time, smiling the smiles of the happily married.

Other Places