Double-Trey in Boston's Back Bay

Having survived yet another year of wedded bliss, for their anniversary #33 (double-trey) Jake & Stone decided that Boston would fit the bill. Not able to do a whole week as last year in Pinehurst, they sought a destination within a four-hour drive that might have stuff to do inside should it be cold. And cold it turned out to be. Daily high temps in the teens and a wind chill that made "chill" a misnomer of understatement. But they are of hardy/foolish stock and decided to look on their wind-tunnel walks through town, carefully scheduled to never be longer than 25 minutes, as salubrious.

Thursday, January 24, 2013:  Careful to avoid I-95, their more northerly route from Jersey proved to be less direct but more relaxing. Parking in the center of Boston is always an issue, but they found Bestparking.com a help, and found a convenient garage that sheltered their car for three nights for $61 total. 

Just Wind Chillin'

Shelter for themselves was provided by the Inn at St. Bololph. What they liked most about the place was the ideal location (two minute walk to Prudential Center) and the stylish rooms. The inn seemed virtually brand new, the little kitchen area was well stocked with urbane glasses, dishes, etc, and the BR area could be closed off with pocket doors. Style was the focus here -- modern and minimalistic, it could be accused of being cold, but Jake & Stone found it rather cozy. This inn is not for everyone, however. The rooms must be booked by credit card and the cancellation policy is pretty severe. Regular maid service isn't provided. There is no "front desk," per se, and entrance to the inn and to the rooms is done by codes punched into a keypad. The staff (never more than one person, in a basement office, but friendly and helpful) can be easily summoned if needed , but overall the feel here is of apartment living rather than that of a hotel or B&B. Jake & Stone both found this atmosphere enjoyable as it reminded them of earlier days in their apartment on the edge of the fondly remembered Gramercy Park in NYC.

The inn's interior amenities were all top-flight -- great bed, nice bathroom stuff, sensible lighting, and most importantly, Wi-Fi that was easy, fast and reliable. On the negative side, the TV was rather finicky (and didn't have the Golf Channel, which threatened to send Jake into withdrawal until he figured out how to see Tiger and the guys on his laptop), one morning the hot water didn't work (management was aware of it and working on it), and the provided continental breakfast is housed in a rather small room, with an espresso machine that does all sorts of wonderful espresso, but no good old American java. (Part of the inn's "style" it seemed.) Overall, Jake & Stone were most happy with the place and would stay there again.

Dinner that night was at Piattini, 226 Newbury St, which was an 11 minute walk from the inn: http://goo.gl/maps/0CEuQ. Piattini bills itself as a "wine cafe" and its wine-by-the-glass ($8) selection was outstanding. Especially appreciated by Jake & Stone was a small business-sized card  that accompanied each glass of wine so they could recollect: "just what was that wine we had?" A good idea more wine bars and the like should emulate. The food (eg, small scampi $12; fusilli primavera $20) was good as well.

The main event that evening was "Pop Rock Live" at the Berklee School of Music's Performance Center, but a four minute walk from Piattini:  http://goo.gl/maps/iM1JE. The show highlighted Berklee students doing covers of pop rock classics, from Aerosmith (note this) to Bonnie Raitt to Michael Jackson. Berklee being one of America's top music schools, the show was a terrific show of musical talent, and it was especially cool to feel the vibe in the room -- students, family and friends clapping wildly for their fellow students and performers.

As a nightcap on their way home, our duo had two nice vodka martinis (Chopin $13; Stoli $11) at the bar of the nearby 40 Dalton Street in the Hilton Boston Back Bay. (BTW, on the bar TV the Knicks were playing (and about to beat) the Celtics; J&S rooted in wise silence.)

Friday, January 25, 2013:  Feeling the need for a breakfast that was more than continental, Jake and Stone crossed the street to the eminently convenient Thornton's, for a good breakfast of eggs, toast and several cups of American Joe.

The Daughters of Edward Darley Boit

It was a brisk but doable walk to the Boston Museum of Fine Arts: http://goo.gl/maps/NN7Qq. First on the list to see were some paintings by John Singer Sargent. In the new Art of the Americas Wing Jake & Stone discovered no less than about a dozen paintings by this prolific artist. The highlight (and the biggest Sargent work on display) was The Daughters of Edward Darley Boit which was wonderful to see in person. But what made the experience even more special was that the painting was displayed with two giant blue-and-white vases left and right of the frame -- the very vases in the rather haunting painting! Jake and Stone spent quite some time in the new wing and can recommend a visit to see that wing alone. They also went downstairs into the museum's lower level to see an exhibition of photographs by Mario Testino, the famous fashion photographer. Stone had a better appreciation of the photos than did Jake, but then she knew many of the subjects, while Jake could recognize only a few -- but he did spy Tom Brady. They also had a drink and snack at the museum's Garden Cafeteria which was both relaxing and classy.

The main event of the evening was a hockey game at Boston College between the BC Eagles and the University of Maine Bears. Dinner was planned for 5:30 at the Metropolitan Club which, according to  Jake's careful planning, was very close to the BC campus and the hockey arena. However, his misreading of the Green Line subway map got them on the wrong side of the rather expansive BC campus, and they had to double-time it, asking students for directions all the way, to the Conte Forum where they picked up the tickets. Then, with the aid of Stone's trusty I-Phone mapping abilities, they hustled again across the cold and hilly campus to the restaurant, making it only 30 minutes later than planned. The food (eg, bowl of clam chowder $12), drinks (Chopin martini $15.50(!)) and atmosphere were very nice.

Seats at the Glass

Even with taking a cab from the restaurant they still got to the hockey game late and found BC behind 1-0. No one expected this to last as BC is the defending NCAA champions and rated #3 this year. However, the tide never turned and BC lost, in a shocker, to Maine by a final of 4-1. Still, Jake & Stone had a great evening. Their seats right at the glass ($20 each, weeks ago purchase) provided them with a view of the game that let them appreciate the speed and athleticism on display. A couple of years ago, on an anniversary trip to Kingston, Canada, they had seen a Canadian minor league game and were surprised at how much better these college kids were. The BC Pep Band, the crowd, the game, all made for a memorable evening.

Taking the correct Green Line back to the Back Bay, they had wanted to have a drink at the Top of the Hub, but it being Friday night the place was jammed with those damn out-of-towners, so they headed on back to their stylish, cozy place on St. Bololph Street. By now the snow, merely hinted before, was now active enough to grace the city scenes in wintry garb.  A great night for sleeping.

The Boston Public Library
(aka: "Stone" and Marble)

Saturday, January 26, 2013:  Breakfast again at Thornton's, where there was a short wait for a table. Then it was off for a guided tour of the Boston Public Library. Their tour guide was engaging, friendly and knowledgeable, and the hour-long tour was fun and educational. The library is an architectural masterpiece by Charles McKim with murals and art work by several artists, including John Singer Sargent. 

"Get Poor Charlies off the MTA!"

Thinking they had earned their Braving-the-Wind-and-Cold Badges, our duo opted for the "T" as a way to get quickly and easily down to the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum.  The Boston subway's easiest way to travel is by "Charlie Card," available at the several ATM-like machines at each stop. As Jake suspected (being old enough to remember seeing the Kingston Trio on TV), the Charlie Card is named after the folk hero of the song by the Kingston Trio. See here for details, via the munificence of YouTube.

The Gardner Museum is but a five minute walk from the Museum of Fine Arts, but is an altogether different experience. Isabella Stewart Gardner was a collector of art of all sorts, and seemingly a good deal of her 2,500+ collection is on display here, in what was at one time her home. It is a unique experience to wander through all these treasures displayed exactly as she wished, and the courtyard alone is worth the price of admission. Still, by the end of their walking, Jake & Stone felt slightly overwhelmed by the chock-o-block art. This is a place perhaps best enjoyed by artistic omnivores.

However, two things at the museum can be recommended without qualification. First is another Sargent work, El Jaleo, which, it must be admitted, is displayed with an artistic eye almost the equal of the artist's. Not to be missed. Second is the Cafe G. For many years now every major museum has had a cafe, and often the food is less than artistic, the service less than inspiring. Happy to say, Jake & Stone found the whole scene at Cafe G to be simply great. The food (eg, soup $9; 2 coffees $7), the service, the room, the wine (glass $10), even the bottled water, were all delightful. Also not to be missed. But sign up early before you are hungry.

For their anniversary dinner our Couple of the Year headed out walking again (the winter wind having abated to just a brumal breeze), this time to Hamersley's Bistro, officially in South Boston, a 15 minute  walk from the inn:  http://goo.gl/maps/NtLPX. Hamersley's is a well regarded restaurant and it lived up to its rep --very good food (eg, haddock $28; pasta $21) with proper bistro ambiance and service. This restaurant also does the right thing. When the waiter-suggested half-bottle of wine was not truly what they wanted (he said the reisling was dry, but it didn't seem that way to our celebrants), there was no trouble ordering a different half-bottle (fume blanc $29) and paying for only it. And when their anniversary desserts didn't really work, the waiter noted their half-finished plates and told them (unprompted) that there would be no charge. No wonder Obama stopped here when he visited Boston last year.

Sunday's checkout at the inn was a breeze, as there was no checkout! Like all the guests, Jake and Stone just packed up, jumped in the car, and were quickly on the Mass Pike headed home. But their anniversary was still being celebrated when they stopped, as they always do, for some good old Dunkin' Donuts coffee. Their Styrofoam cups clicked silently in the car as they toasted each other one final time, smiling the smiles of the happily married.

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