Go East, Old Man

Now that he is within whispering distance of the Biblical threescore-years-and-ten, Jake decided this year's birthday getaway would be out east, to Montauk, NY. This tippy-tip of Long Island figured prominently in the youthful romance of Jake and Stone, so they both looked forward to a return trip.

Monday, April 20, 2015 -- Leaving in the afternoon from their Jersey home base, the 3.5 hour drive was a dreary, rainy affair, but their room at the Montauk Manor proved to pick up our couple's spirits. Booked on booking.com for a most reasonable 3-night fee, their room was a stylish, modern condo type with two TVs, a nice kitchen, a small patio and a cozy sleeping loft. The Montauk Manor itself is a historic place (1927) set on a hilltop with commanding views. Its updating (pool/Jacuzzi/sauna, tennis courts, putting green) has not diminished its roaring-twenties charm and atmosphere.

Part of Montauk's allure is its mixed atmosphere of tourism, gritty fishing village, and seasonal high-rollers. None of the latter are to be found at The Dock. Here there are signs warning: cash only, no cell phones, no yapping dogs, no strollers, no screaming kids, no sensitive drunks. Lots of locals, lots of beers, lots of "local atmosphere," pretty good food. Perfect for a rainy night dinner, especially if one shares The Dock's admonishments.

Tuesday, April 21, 2015 -- A bit foggy and coolish, but the breeze soon cleared things out, and Jake

Sag Harbor in the Fog

and Stone had a nice pastry/coffee breakfast at Mary's Marvelous in East Hampton. The little town of Sag Harbor was on their list of memory-lane places, and things seemed much the same as 35+ years ago. After walking around town a bit and buying some provisions, they headed out Highway 114 to the Sag Harbor State Golf Course. This nice little 9-holer was a delight, and Stone's form was impeccable most of the day. Lots of fun.

Stone's Rock Solid Swing

Back in town, Jake's birthday lunch at the American Hotel was nothing short of spectacular. This is a place for the East End's high rollers so be prepared to have a $90 lunch -- but it is worth it: martini, wine, lobster BLT, spinach salad were all very good, and the lobster bisque was the best Jake ever had. Service and atmosphere were top-notch.

It was snooze-and-read time back at the Manor, then back east on Old Montauk Highway (a fun road with nice ocean views and very expensive houses) and Route 27 (less fun, less expensive houses) into Amagansett for dinner. The Indian Wells Tavern's bar was busy with Rangers/Yankees on TV, but our couple found a quiet table in the dining area. The "catch of the day" was fluke, which Stone liked almost as much as the accompanying lobster risotto. Jake's cheese burger was big and juicy, but the highlight of his repast was a 14 oz can of Pabst Blue Ribbon for $4.

The Beach at Hither Hills SP

Wednesday, April 22, 2015 -- Back in the day, Jake didn't know from golf, but aging has its upside, and golf is one of them. While Stone explored Hither Hills State Park and walked the the beach all alone with the ocean and the birds, Jake was at Montauk Downs. Montauk Downs is one of America's top "muni" courses, and is but a five minute ride from the Manor. Arriving early (7 AM) Jake expected a crowd, but found -- no one! Okay, it was little cool; okay it was a little breezy; okay it cost $52 for out-of-NY-state, but still!

Fresh Seafood

While waiting for the starter(!) another golfer showed up(!). Jake let him go first, then teed off alone on this lovely, links beauty. God bless America.  "The Downs" provided a wonderful day of walking golf. Being links-like, the fairways are wide, and its actually hard to lose a ball (but not impossible, as Jake found out). But the challenge here is to be found first in the various lies the rolling terrain provides. Then, even more so, in the green complexes, which are bunkered like Sicily in WWII with putts of always challenging rolls. The only disappointment for Jake was in seeing so many houses around the perimeter of the course, but "The Downs" deserves its national respect and Jake thoroughly enjoyed his 18 holes.

Lunch on this day was a mix of left-overs and other provisions back in the room. After lunch our duo headed out to the Montauk Point Lighthouse and the nearby Camp Hero State Park for some biking, a bit of hiking, and lots of ocean viewing. The cliffs at Camp Hero were especially dramatic and afforded great views of hardy surfers enjoying the waves.

Cliffs at Camp Hero SP

"Surf City" --  Montauk Style

A pleasant early dinner at Harvest on Fort Pond -- a nice place overlooking Fort Pond with sunset views -- let our duo get back to the Manor in time to watch the Mets win once again.Before going to sleep on their final night out on the East End, they realized it's hard to find a better springtime destination within a 3-hour drive from home, so it's likely that Jake's next birthday will find them heading east again.

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