Friday, May 12, 2017

Like a Fine Brandywine....

Seventy years old is an age noted by two rather noteworthy writers -- Moses and Shakespeare.

In Psalm 90 Moses wrote (attributed) most famously:
“The days of our lives are threescore and ten....”

In Macbeth (Act II, Scene 4) a character called simply “Old Man”(!) says:
“Threescore and ten I can remember well....”

Having reached this literary milestone – and refusing to view this milestone as any sort of “a milestone around his neck” -- Jake and his Number 1 headed out for a three-night celebration in the historic and picturesque Brandywine Valley of Pennsylvania, just southwest of Philadelphia.

Monday, April 24, 2017 -- The predicted rain stayed away from our couple long enough to allow them a wonderful day of outside pleasures. First on the list was nine holes of golf (Stone walking in caddy-for-a-day duty) at the Ed Oliver Golf Course in Wilmington, DE. This 18-holer recommended itself mostly by being on the way via the trusty NJ Turnpike, and being one of the few courses in the area to have a reasonable price. Still, $20 for nine holes seemed excessive to Jake, who is use to his cheap-o, senior rate at his home course, Tamarack in East Brunswick.

The course, which honestly is not worth going out of one's way to play, proved to be an interesting golf history lesson. Ed “Porky” Oliver was a popular and successful PGA pro in the 1940s and 50s. Oliver was certainly a Delaware guy. Born in Wilmington, Oliver got married to an Army nurse while on duty at Fort Dix in 1942. The course that now bears his name was the original site of the Wilmington Country Club (now a tony golf club some three miles north; Joe Biden became a member there in 2014) where Oliver was a caddy before turning pro at age 18. The course had quick greens and some strong holes, but it was pretty beat up in general. However, it seemed to be getting some much needed major maintenance.

Jake by Brandywine Creek
Stone at Ridley Creek
The rain clouds threatened, but the rain stayed away as Jake and Stone had nice little bike ride up and down a bit of the Brandywine Creek, but a ten minute drive from Ed's golf place. Then it was on to a longer, vigorous ride at Ridley StatePark, which provided various terrain, creek views, and a wide, paved trail.


At the edge of the the state park is La Porta, a ristorante that provided a nice late lunch. La Porta had a good wine list, and featured a welcoming, cozy, somewhat rural ambiance. The mushroom soup was especially tasty.

Our couple's hostelry for their three nights away was The Inn at Grace Winery in Glen Mills, PA. Here the main draw proved to be the expansive grounds and buildings, which included the main inn (which is historic and elegant) and several “cottages,” of which the Brandywine Cottage featured a jetted tub, so Jake needed little more incentive to choose it. 

The inn does all the big things quite well – the staff is wonderful and the atmosphere is a sort of restful, understated country chic, but the inn was not without its small irritants. The wi-fi was inconsistent, a dog roamed the breakfast room, and though they state “free breakfast,” to get more than yogurt or oatmeal it will cost you extra. Such a fine establishment is demeaned by such nickle-and-diming.

Speaking well of the inn's staff, the welcoming desk did well indeed to direct Jake and Stone to the Harvest Seasonal Grill and Wine Bar for dinner. Both Jake and Stone were immediately struck by mimicking of the much larger chain, Seasons 52. If you have been to a Seasons 52 then you will find little different at Harvest Seasonal Grill. Luckily, both chains are real good at what they do – attractive atmosphere, attentive service, good menu, lots to drink – and Jake and Stone enjoyed their drinks and food.

Tuesday, April 25, 2017 – The rains were in full force on this day. So it was into Philly for a look at the American Watercolor exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Both Jake and Stone thought the exhibit one of the best they had seen in quite some time – interesting, just the right size, educational, and downright amazing to look at. Neither had realized the versatility of the watercolor medium, nor how Americans came to dominate this artistic scene in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Best of all, there were some classic Winslow Homer and John Singer Sargent works to look at – the juxtaposing of which was fun to see. Both Stone and Jake have realized over the years that they like their art to be representational, and one can hardly do better in this category – at least by Americans – than Homer and Singer.

But even better than the planned art was the serendipity of the past recovered. Stone's father grew up in Narbeth, PA, outside Philly. When Stone was a child, her family spent many a holiday at her dad's home. On the way to Philly, Stone soon recognized the Narbeth area, and with a little good luck our couple found the actual house! While Stone was taking pictures of the house to show her brother back in Jersey, the owner pulled into the driveway. Soon Jake and Stone were invited into the old house. Amazingly, except for a new kitchen and an added ½ bath, it had not been renovated. Stone toured the house, with the gracious owner at her side, for more than 20 minutes; Stone on the edge of tears more than once. Wondrous indeed.

After the art and an arduous drive from Philly back to Brandywine country, it was still raining like hell, so Stone and Jake made the quick trip to La Porta again for dinner. This time the food was less wonderful, but the wine was still delicious and the vibe most sheltered and homey.

Wednesday, April 26, 2017 – A major draw of the Brandywine area for Jake was the chance to play a golf course he had longed to patronize since he was the webmaster of the now forgotten, but still legendary, in Jake's mind, Internet site, Jerseygolf.com. Back in the heyday of Jerseygolf.com, Jake featured a story about the Golf Course at Glen Mills in Glen Mills, PA. In 2000 the Glen Mills Schools, a school for troubled youth that dates to 1826, had golf architect Bobby Weed design a golf course on the school's grounds. Since then, the schools' course has given students the chance to develop hands-on training for careers in the golf industry.

The Golf Course at Glen Mills

Yikes!
Little more needs to be said about the Golf Course at Glen Mills, except to note that it is ranked by Golfweek magazine as the fourth best public course in all of Pennsylvania.

The starter warned Jake (and his golf cart co-pilot Stone) that the course was pretty difficult. Understatement! Even sometimes using what Jake came to call the “grandfather tees,” the blind and pur-blind shots, the roller-coaster terrain, the humpy-lumpy greens, the thousands (so it seemed) of bunkers, all provided a fun day of golf -- if, like Jake, one doesn't lower the tone of the day by keeping score. With the right attitude, or really good golf skills, Glen Mills is a terrific place to play.

Did someone say “terrain”? Perhaps our couples' most enjoyable meal was at Terrain Garden Cafe Restaurant, about eight miles from the Glen Mills course, on US Route 1 – often referred to in theses parts at the Baltimore Pike. Their apres-golf, late lunch, which was served in an old greenhouse, was simply delightful: they shared a creamy yogurt/granola/fruit plate, and each had a bowl of Kennett Square mushroom soup. Little wonder reviewers from Open Table to Tripadvisor give this unique eatery such high marks.

(Why Kennett Square mushrooms? Kennett Square, PA, about 20 miles away on the "Baltimore Pike," is the self-proclaimed Mushroom Capital of the World, and it most likely is just that. The surrounding area not only produces over 50,000,000 pounds of mushrooms a year (half of the total in the USA), the town also has it own two-day mushroom festival every year, and on New Years Eve they often drop a rather large mushroom (say, about 800 pounds) in lieu of a Times Square ball at midnight.

That night's dinner was the Gables atChadds Ford, about a 30 minute attention-necessary drive from the inn. (The up-and-down, winding nature of the skinny roads – typical of much of the Brandywine Valley -- reminded both Jake and Stone of the golf course.) The Gables promotes itself as an up-scale food place, but on entering the large eatery (housed in an old barn) Jake and Stone had their doubts. However, they both found their Gables Farmhouse Salads (one with chicken, one with salmon) to be first rate. The martinis were perhaps the coldest and best of the trip.

The Brandywine Cottage features, besides the mentioned jetted tub, a nice little porch. It was here, after dinner and the drive back to the inn (Stone at the wheel, thank you very much), and after a final rub-a-dub-dub in the jetted tub, that Jake enjoyed a Romeo Y Julieta cigar. Like Macbeth's “old man,” Jake could, thankfully, remember well his three-score-and-ten.

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