The Black Hills of South Dakota

Tuesday, Oct 16, 2018 – The great American West is suddenly all around. While in New Jersey, Jake and Stone rarely made trips west of the Mississippi. Since moving to Colorado, previously exotic states like Idaho, New Mexico, Utah and Nevada are suddenly within a reasonable one- or two-day drive. The Black Hills of South Dakota is but a six-hour drive north. So with few preconceptions of the area – except remembered lyrics of Rocky Raccoon and school-days images of Mt. Rushmore – our duo loaded up their car, put the bike rack on, and headed up I-25 to see what's what.

In less than 90 minutes on I-25, Jake and Stone were in Fort Collins, Colorado. Home to Colorado State University (CSU), Fort Collins has many of the advantages that grace most “college towns.” Among these benefits is a good system of bike trails. The Poudre Trail runs for about 12 miles through Fort Collins, pretty much following the Poudre River (early 19^th century French trappers gave the river its name) thorough town.

At a bridge over the River Poudre
in Fort Collins, Colorado

Our duo parked very near the New Belgium Brewing Company (BTW, USA Today named it the #1brewery tour in America – good beer is another benefit of a town full of college students) and started south, down river. After about a mile through less-than-beautiful surroundings, the trail became one of their favorite rides in recent memory. The wide and smooth concrete surface, with a nice dividing line in the middle, made for easy pedaling for the entire round trip of about 11 miles. With mileage markers every quarter mile(!) and the meandering river often in sight, the varied woodlands and grasslands made for a relaxing, interesting trip.

In the distance Jake enjoys a swing by the river.

On the way back from the trail's southern end at the CSU Environmental Center, Jake and Stone took a little ride on the intersecting Spring Creek Trail. Here they shortly discovered a colony of prairie dogs. These cute little critters were fun to watch as they munched on the short, stubby bits of grass, posed for a picture or two, frolicked with each other, and generally enjoyed the abundant Colorado sunshine.

A herbivorous burrowing rodent. AKA: prairie dog.

A late lunch at Two Doors Down in Cheyenne, Wyoming proved to be a happy surprise, then it was off towards Crawford, Nebraska where Jake hoped to play nine holes of golf at the well-regarded Legend Buttes course. This drive was often unnerving and at times genuinely spooky. There is a lot of nothing between Cheyenne and Crawford – except for cattle. And even they seemed a long way from any barn, ranch, shelter or reasonable facsimile.

Without a map of anywhere but Colorado (Jake had mistakenly thrown away what he thought was an unneeded atlas before the trip started), with cell service more often not available than available, with miles of driving with not another single car in sight on the two-lane blacktops, with the gas gage seeming to drop faster than usual, with the Great Plains prairie dusk happening beautifully but rather too quickly, our duo whistled in the dark (metaphorically) until they reached some Nebraska town (its name now forgotten, washed away by the feeling of relief) that at least had a gas station.

So happy to see headlights, just had to take a picture.

It was too late for golf in Crawford. So now, with at least cell service more on than off, Jake and Stone pulled into the Nebraska metropolis (nearly 6,000 people) of Chadron, NE. Here Jake had found a reputable motel room for $62, including taxes. The Motel Grand --clean, quiet, 2 queen beds, little fridge, microwave, TV -- on Route 20 proved to be the best bang-for-buck in quite a while. Sleep, as they say on the prairie, came easy.

Wednesday, October 17, 2018 – Anxious to get on the road toward South Dakota, Jake and Stone fueled up at a Maverick gas station/convenience store and headed up US Route 385 toward the Black Hills. Hot Springs, South Dakota is pretty much the southern end of the Black Hills. It was java and pastry this morning at the local and cozy Mornin' Sunshine on River Street in this tourist town where the warm, therapeutic spring water runs in a grassy slough though the middle of town. A little waterfall highlights a nice little walk by the water that was steaming on this morning thanks to the cool morning temperature.

Rainbows come in all sizes.

"Let's call this place Hot Springs!"

Our duo enjoyed walking around this pleasant town with its “Old West frontier” type architecture. River Street is also home to the Morris Grand Gallery, a stylish, upscale art gallery housed in a building that originally was an opera house. The back room had items for sale, and Stone got a nice little wall vase, for the rock-bottom price of $8.

Hot Springs is also the home of the Southern Hills Golf Course, which Golfweek magazine rates as the second best course in South Dakota. The day was still chilly enough that Jake had no trouble walking on, and for a riders' fee of $10, Stone was able to join him as cart driver, flag holder, and cheerleader. Having time for only nine holes, they started out on #10, which was a par-3 with a vertical drop to the green only seemingly a little less than the horizontal yardage to the hole. This tee was no much elevated as it was aloft. Jake lost two balls off the tee, but the cart ride down was a jolly trip, and after throwing a ball onto the green, Jake made a nice two-putt.

Jake hoping for the fairway.

The next eight holes spill over the hilly terrain in dramatic fashion. The cart rides between holes were often so long that Jake half expected a toll booth here and there. Southern Hills is not to Jake's taste – nor his budget at $49 for 9 holes, off-season – but it was in very good shape, provided some fun, and had some wonderful Black Hills mountain views. For an upscale, holiday course, it fits the bill nicely.

Custer, South Dakota (named after General you-know-who) is the central city in Custer State Park, and as a tourist town it is pleasant enough. One of the best places to eat is the Buglin' Bull Restaurant and Sports Bar. Here Jake and Stone had a good lunch of a BLT wrap and a pulled pork sandwich, accompanied by a cold bottle of Stella Artois and a glass of Kendall Jackson chardonnay. Recommended.

Then it was a 15-minute drive up to the Sylvan Lake Lodge which enjoys mountain views up and around, and a view of Sylvan Lake down through the Ponderosa Pines. Jake and Stone's room was tastefully decorated (Old West), had two queen beds, and a little balcony with a small table and two chairs. The lodge itself is highlighted by its main room, replete with sitting areas, comfy chairs and couches, a fireplace that was in use, and a small bar next to the dining room entrance. It was the last week of the season, and the lodge was lightly populated; the dining room never had more than eight people at once.

Slylvan Lake

Before dinner our couple walked a bit around the lake, careful of the snow patches and ice. The lake's setting is quite dramatic. (During the summer water activities are plentiful.) After their walk they had dinner in the large dining room – trout for Stone and Buffalo Stroganoff for Jake. Both dishes were only average, but the Black Hills is more about family dining than fine dining – except for the Soken Kitchen in Custer, of which there will be more anon.

Thursday, Oct 18, 2018 – One of the most ballyhooed drives in Custer State Park is the Needles Highway. Our couple was up early to avoid the presumed traffic on this famous roadway, but it was so late in the season there were very few cars, and Jake and Stone could pull off onto the numerous small, road-shoulder viewing spots whenever necessary. And it was necessary often. Often thought impossible to construct, this one-of-a-kind road is a true must-drive/must-see. The road's most famous tunnel is called the Eye of the Needle, a single-lane passage that might have bigger cars folding in their side mirrors. The pictures do not do justice to the look-at-that! sights. This speed limit on this windy road is sometimes posted at 5 MPH. 

Along the Needles Highway.

The Eye of the Needle

From the Sylvan Lake Lodge the Needles Highway runs down to the State Game Lodge. Dating from the 1920s, this classic stone lodge hosted President Coolidge in 1927. His much publicized summer visit put the Black Hills (and truthfully, South Dakota as well) on the map. Silent Cal was scheduled to stay three weeks; he stayed for three months, turning the lodge into that year's Summer White House.

Stone and Jake had a very nice breakfast in the lodge's dining room, bought a photograph from the “artist in residence” at the lodge, the author and photographer Dick Kettlewell, and enjoyed walking around the stately lodge. The Grace Coolidge Creek (named after you-know-whose wife) runs right by the lodge, and has a paved trail that provided a great little bike ride of less than 2 miles to its terminus at the Coolidge Campground.

Stone staying dry.

Crossing the Grace Coolidge Creek.

From the campground they easily crossed Highway 16A and biked to the Grace Coolidge Walk-in Fishing Area. Here there was a trail that followed the creek upstream. It is apparently a haven for fishing (mostly trout), but after only 10 minutes our couple found themselves at a wonderful little creekside area where peace and quiet were outdone only by the away-from-it-all feel. Wonderful.

The next drive on this day was a windy one up the Iron Mountain Highway, 17 miles of forest views, three unusual wooden “pigtail bridges,” and several one-lane tunnels, a la Needles. The last tunnel gives the car a unique view of Mt. Rushmore from quite a distance. Stone and Jake passed on visiting Mt. Rushmore, and stopped for lunch at Ruby's House Restaurant in Keystone, South Dakota. The restaurant is very atmospheric (turn-of-the-century saloon with hints of past “ladies-of-the-night”) and is a tourist magnet.

Tunnel vision.

Along the Iron Mountain Highway
in the Black Hills of South Dakota.

It was then on to Hill City, a tourist town that has the benefit of selling some of the best chocolate “turtles” Jake ever tasted. Turtle Town on Main Street. Go ahead, you're on vacation.

After relaxing back in their lodge room, Jake and Stone headed back down to Custer and the SkogenKitchen  for dinner. Open for less than two years, this small, Scandinavian-feeling place has become a rage. Reservations are indeed necessary. Everything here was tip-top: food, wine, service, vibe. The reviews tell the story. Our duo started with butternut squash soup with bacon bits. For their main dishes Stone had suckling pig and a glass of pinto noir, while Jake had the beef filet and a glass of Côtes du Rhône.

Since they had made their reservations rather late in the scheme of things, the only seats immediately available were at “the community table,” a high-top affair that seats six that was then empty. Hoping for company, they were joined mid-session by a couple from New Jersey (of course) on their way to visit family in Rapid City, South Dakota. Good food and good drink makes for good conversation, and the night ended with good wishes and handshakes all around. This place will only get more famous; reserve early, bring money and enjoy.

On the drive home they decided the Black Hills might well become a yearly autumnal trip. 

In a hallway niche at Sylvan Lodge,
Stone has a last cup of coffee before leaving the Black Hills.

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