Go East, Old Man

Now that he is within whispering distance of the Biblical threescore-years-and-ten, Jake decided this year's birthday getaway would be out east, to Montauk, NY. This tippy-tip of Long Island figured prominently in the youthful romance of Jake and Stone, so they both looked forward to a return trip.

Monday, April 20, 2015 -- Leaving in the afternoon from their Jersey home base, the 3.5 hour drive was a dreary, rainy affair, but their room at the Montauk Manor proved to pick up our couple's spirits. Booked on booking.com for a most reasonable 3-night fee, their room was a stylish, modern condo type with two TVs, a nice kitchen, a small patio and a cozy sleeping loft. The Montauk Manor itself is a historic place (1927) set on a hilltop with commanding views. Its updating (pool/Jacuzzi/sauna, tennis courts, putting green) has not diminished its roaring-twenties charm and atmosphere.

Part of Montauk's allure is its mixed atmosphere of tourism, gritty fishing village, and seasonal high-rollers. None of the latter are to be found at The Dock. Here there are signs warning: cash only, no cell phones, no yapping dogs, no strollers, no screaming kids, no sensitive drunks. Lots of locals, lots of beers, lots of "local atmosphere," pretty good food. Perfect for a rainy night dinner, especially if one shares The Dock's admonishments.

Tuesday, April 21, 2015 -- A bit foggy and coolish, but the breeze soon cleared things out, and Jake

Sag Harbor in the Fog

and Stone had a nice pastry/coffee breakfast at Mary's Marvelous in East Hampton. The little town of Sag Harbor was on their list of memory-lane places, and things seemed much the same as 35+ years ago. After walking around town a bit and buying some provisions, they headed out Highway 114 to the Sag Harbor State Golf Course. This nice little 9-holer was a delight, and Stone's form was impeccable most of the day. Lots of fun.

Stone's Rock Solid Swing

Back in town, Jake's birthday lunch at the American Hotel was nothing short of spectacular. This is a place for the East End's high rollers so be prepared to have a $90 lunch -- but it is worth it: martini, wine, lobster BLT, spinach salad were all very good, and the lobster bisque was the best Jake ever had. Service and atmosphere were top-notch.

It was snooze-and-read time back at the Manor, then back east on Old Montauk Highway (a fun road with nice ocean views and very expensive houses) and Route 27 (less fun, less expensive houses) into Amagansett for dinner. The Indian Wells Tavern's bar was busy with Rangers/Yankees on TV, but our couple found a quiet table in the dining area. The "catch of the day" was fluke, which Stone liked almost as much as the accompanying lobster risotto. Jake's cheese burger was big and juicy, but the highlight of his repast was a 14 oz can of Pabst Blue Ribbon for $4.

The Beach at Hither Hills SP

Wednesday, April 22, 2015 -- Back in the day, Jake didn't know from golf, but aging has its upside, and golf is one of them. While Stone explored Hither Hills State Park and walked the the beach all alone with the ocean and the birds, Jake was at Montauk Downs. Montauk Downs is one of America's top "muni" courses, and is but a five minute ride from the Manor. Arriving early (7 AM) Jake expected a crowd, but found -- no one! Okay, it was little cool; okay it was a little breezy; okay it cost $52 for out-of-NY-state, but still!

Fresh Seafood

While waiting for the starter(!) another golfer showed up(!). Jake let him go first, then teed off alone on this lovely, links beauty. God bless America.  "The Downs" provided a wonderful day of walking golf. Being links-like, the fairways are wide, and its actually hard to lose a ball (but not impossible, as Jake found out). But the challenge here is to be found first in the various lies the rolling terrain provides. Then, even more so, in the green complexes, which are bunkered like Sicily in WWII with putts of always challenging rolls. The only disappointment for Jake was in seeing so many houses around the perimeter of the course, but "The Downs" deserves its national respect and Jake thoroughly enjoyed his 18 holes.

Lunch on this day was a mix of left-overs and other provisions back in the room. After lunch our duo headed out to the Montauk Point Lighthouse and the nearby Camp Hero State Park for some biking, a bit of hiking, and lots of ocean viewing. The cliffs at Camp Hero were especially dramatic and afforded great views of hardy surfers enjoying the waves.

Cliffs at Camp Hero SP

"Surf City" --  Montauk Style

A pleasant early dinner at Harvest on Fort Pond -- a nice place overlooking Fort Pond with sunset views -- let our duo get back to the Manor in time to watch the Mets win once again.Before going to sleep on their final night out on the East End, they realized it's hard to find a better springtime destination within a 3-hour drive from home, so it's likely that Jake's next birthday will find them heading east again.

Other Places

Jekyll -- On and Off the Island

On their first day on Jekyll Island, the smallest of Georgia barrier islands,  Jake and Stone were chatting with another couple in the small parking lot of Jekyll's equally small 9-hole golf course. Jake and Stone mentioned they had been to Jekyll three times previously. First for two nights, then twice for a week, and now this time, for two weeks. "That's how it starts," stated the female half of the other couple. "We started years ago with a week or two, then a month; now for several years we've been coming down here for three months."

Such stories are not unusual on this island overseen by the Jekyll Island Authority, a Georgia state agency. And though Jake and Stone are a long way from planning monthly stays, their visiting trajectory is on a common path. In 2006 (way back in pre-blog days) is was for two nights, then in 2010 and 2013 it was for a week, and now it will be for two weeks.  And still they will be sorry to leave.

Friday January 23, 2015 -- As is their habit, our duo eschews the more direct southern route out of New Jersey. It's not that they hate I-95; "hate" is too strong a word. But it is close. Heading west out of Jersey leads to I-81 south, which basically runs through the Appalachian Mountains and provides a scenic ride. Our couple stops for the night at the Holiday Inn Express in Christiansburg, VA. This HIE proves to be newly built, with lots of amens, including a salt water(!) pool.

Freezing rain in Christiansburg, VA

This HIE's location proves to be a bit of serendipity, as the weather has worsened on their way southward. The freezing rain makes the nearby Red Robin restaurant (a restaurant chain they have heard about but not visisted) look suddenly quite attractive, as it is within an easy walk. Known for its burgers, this Red Robin proves to be good on that score. However our couple makes the rookie mistake of ordering Stoli martinis -- not the thing to do at a burger bar. The upside is that each drink was only $5.79. (They have the receipt to prove it.) After dinner it was but another careful walk on the ice to a movie theater complex where they saw The Imitation Game, which they both thought terrific.

Saturday, January 24, 2015 -- An early start on their long drive down to Jekyll gets them to their 2BR condo -- the same one they rented last year -- in time for a late afternoon bike ride (about 2.5 miles one-way) down the beach-side trail to check out the IGA grocery store. Though they plan to buy their supplies tomorrow at the Winn-Dixie in Brunswick, GA, it is good to know that this store has a nice selection of groceries and even an okay deli. Back at their condo it's brought-from-home tuna pasta and wine on the little ocean-view balcony and then to sleep before 10 PM.

Sunday, January 25, 2015 -- Up early, Jake and Stone enjoyed a sunrise walk on the beach, and then were off to breakfast at a Waffle House about 15 minutes off the island in the large neighboring town of Brunswick. Having never eaten at this southern icon that has its own "museum," Jake and Stone will admit to being happily surprised at what they found. Jake's pecan waffle was "well-done" properly and delicious. Stone likewise liked her eggs, toast and grits. The crowd was properly folksy, with many saying "morning" to each other. The service was fast and efficient with the waitresses shouting out their orders to the cook, who echoes the orders to make sure things are straight. All this was simply charming to our Jersey couple used to Jersey diners. Jake half expected a waitress to sooner or late shout out, "Adam and Eve on a raft, and wreck 'em."

Stone at Great Dunes
Golf Course on Jekyll Island

The nearby Winn-Dixie is not nearly so different than any Jersey Stop and Shop (outside of the available wine and beer!), but it provides our couple with all they need for their stay. Back at the villa it's time to read and/or snooze.

After lunch Jake and Stone head to the Great Dunes Golf Course, a historic 9-holer that proves, as usual,  to be a windy, fun round of golf for them both. The green on hole #5 at Great Dunes provides maybe the best view on Jekyll, and on this day was the scene of Stone's best ever up-and-down, doing so from 80 yards out!

Perfect place for best ever up-and-down

One of Jekyll's best features is the historic Jekyll Island Club Hotel, which is the most impressive structure leftover from the days when this island was the summer playground of many of America's leading millionaires. This is the place to go for a good drink at the hotel's small, stylish bar. Jake and Stone get their requisite martinis, then retire to the expansive veranda to watch the sunset come and go above the Jekyll River.

On this evening, Jake and Stone soon find themselves in conversation with a couple from Maine. Conviviality is often part-and-parcel of days at Jekyll, but soon Jake and Stone are laughing more than usual as the four-sided conversation goes on into the night. The male part of the Maine couple is truly funny -- and soon they discover why. He turns out to be Louis Ramey, a professional comedian who has just finished a gig at the hotel. He tells some wonderful stories about several of our duo's favorite comedians -- including one about the night he beat out Jim Gaffigan in a comedy contest. Drinks, a veranda, a sunset and a show! Even the millionaires were rarely so lucky as Jake and Stone on this night.

Monday, January 26, 2015 -- This day is Jake and Stone's 35th wedding anniversary, and to celebrate they golf and bike -- separately. Stone takes a good, long bike ride around the top of the island down to the Jekyll Hotel, where she stops in at the Club Cafe for some java and a snack. Jake has a long, very windy day at Indian Mound Golf Course, where he plays alone, trapped between two foursomes. Luckily, the country-park setting for Indian Mound (and the two other 18-holers on Jekyll for that matter) proves to make the round worthwhile.

Their anniversary dinner this year is at Nazzaro's on St. Simons Island, about 30 minutes away. The dinner is good enough, if not great, but they enjoy reviewing the last, always-great 35 years together.

Hiking trail at Crooked River

Tuesday, January 27, 2015 -- With Jekyll scheduled for two weeks this trip, Jake and Stone have time to get off the island and see other places. A little less than an hour away is St. Marys, GA. Just above St. Marys proper is Crooked River State Park. Here they took advantage of most of the 4 miles of hiking trails, enjoying the coastal forest, marsh views, and lack of other hikers. Their hopes of seeing some interesting birds didn't pay off. However -- Stone spotted an armadillo! She got a good look at it scampering into the underbrush, and Jake saw enough of its strange, prehistoric body to likewise feel the thrill of an unexpected discovery.

The town of St. Marys does most of its tourist business during the summer when it serves as "the gateway to Cumberland Island" and Cumberland's famous wild horses. Jake and Stone walked through the quiet streets and out onto the fishing pier. Though this small Georgia town was winter-slow, our couple had a great window seat lunch at the Blue Goose on Osborne where the wine was but $5 a glass, and the "Kickin' Chicken" salad was only outdone by a delicious serving of nuts and honey-drizzled goat cheese.

Wednesday, January 28 until Friday, January 30, 2015 --  Jake and Stone are lucky enough to have several friendships that date back to when they were dating in dear ol' NYC. Jaybird is one of these friends from days of yore, when he and other pals enlivened the streets of Gotham from Gramercy Park to Harlem. Jaybird, who is originally from way-upstate New York, has found himself a nice winter's nest in Florida. Lake Ashton  is a private, 36-hole golf community southwest of Orlando where Jaybird beguiles the passing days with two things -- golf and beer.

Lake Ashton's scorecard fails to note
course hazards such as this creature

In this tony enclave sprinkled with millionaires, Jake and Jaybird played both of Lake Ashton's 18-hole layouts, which were each in excellent condition, and made for a nice two days of golf. They also played a round at a public course, Southern Dunes, which was not so nice. The play at Southern Dunes was slow, the weather was hot, and the greens were so fast ("rolling at 12 on the stimp," bragged the employee when Jake and Jaybird checked in) that they sucked most of the fun out of the day.

Additionally, though lovely to look at -- its 183 bunkers(!) not withstanding -- this generally well-regarded 18-hole layout was often too close to houses, letting barking dogs and radios accompany Jake's tee shots, which were sadly in need of total concentration. The worst of the day --  besides stepping onto the micro-cropped putting green that was so fast that the grass seemed not green but blue -- was Jaybird's reminding Jake that it was he who had suggested and planned this torture test disguised as an afternoon of golf.

Bok Tower Gardens'
"singing tower"

In direct contrast to Jake's day at Southern Dunes was Stone's parallel visit to Bok Tower Gardens, a national historic landmark designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr. (son of his more famous dad).  Even with the peak blooming season weeks off, Stone simply loved her four-hour visit, walking the meandering paths amidst the 250 acres of trees, plants and flowers.

The tower's base and famous
"golden door" 

The center piece of the gardens is the "singing tower," a 200'+ tall, 60-bell carillon, a musical instrument that is played by a carillonneur (of course!).  The carillonneur gave a live 30-minute recital at 3 PM, which Stone enjoyed listening to as she walked to the Pinewood Estate, which features a 20-room mansion that has been restored to its 1930s decor. As if all that is not enough of a contrast to Jake's bad day of golf, Stone ended her afternoon not drowning her sorrows with a clubhouse beer, but by enjoying a long, relaxing mani-pedi.

Their visit to Lake Ashton was highlighted by a final dinner at Crazy Fish Bar & Grill. Jaybird's somewhat checkered career in and out of government employment included some time as a politician, so it was not a surprise to Jake and Stone that when they entered this down-home seafood place most of the staff, including the owner, pulled Jaybird over to say hello or shake hands. In fact, though Jaybird has only been flying south for only a couple of winters, if Lake Ashton needed a mayor-of-golf, he would be declared the winner moments after the polls closed.

Jaybird and Jake at Lake Ashton, FL

Crazy Fish was awarded a Certificate of Excellence 2014 from TripAdvisor, and Jake and Stone would certainly concur. The food was great, the service friendly, and the unique ambiance, which is part of the fun, might be described as "shabby artistic." Crazy Fish looks like hell from outside, but it's heavenly once inside. Not to be missed.

Jake and Stone left Friday morning with time to spare as they had to suffer the dreaded I-4 traffic through Orlando to get back to their Jekyll ranch. The drive was made more palatable by a stop near Ormand Beach, FL, where Stone and Jake visited over lunch with one of Stone's old high school pals. Though the four-hour drive went well enough, they rewarded themselves with martinis back at the Jekyll Hotel bar. There, as is often the case, they fell into pleasant conversation, this time with two other couples from Jacksonville, FL, up for a weekend visit to Jekyll.

One of Jekyll's best bike trails

Saturday, January 31, 2015 --  Their bike ride this day had only gone a mile down the path beside North Beach Drive when Jake and Stone stopped in a "whole contents sale" of the Jekyll Oceanfront Clarion Resort which closed 4 years ago. It was somewhat sad and spooky to walk around what was essentially a giant yard sale. But amid the restaurant equipment, furniture, linens, toasters, etc, our couple found two old framed photos of the early Jekyll Island golf course (now the 9-hole Great Dunes course) and carried them away for $25 each.

After returning to the villa to drop off their bankruptcy booty, they enjoyed a long morning bike ride south, even discovering a new (to them) and wonderful bike trail through the trees and marshlands. Having biked to nearly the southern tip of the island, it was a struggle to get back northward, especially into the head wind that had developed.

But once they reached the convention center area of the island they discovered a BBQ "cook off" was

As they say in the south, try
some "bald peanuts"

in progress in Great Dunes Park. Here they walked among the vendors, tried boiled peanuts (not to their liking), and pork sandwiches (very much to their liking) which they ate while talking to two young guys who were there to promote spike ball -- a sport they are convinced will be bigger than volleyball in a couple of years. You heard it here first.  (See the video here.)

Once back at their at their 2BR, they snoozed, then took a sunset walk on the beach where they  once again marveled at the wide-winged pelicans diving into the Atlantic Ocean for the ultimate fresh seafood dinner.    

Sunday, February 1, 2015 -- If it's Sunday morning it must mean breakfast out, so it is once again to the Waffle House in Brunswick, then a little shopping at the nearby Winn-Dixie. While Stone biked, read and relaxed on the balcony, Jake played the Great Dunes 9-hole course twice. After the first seven holes he joined another single golfer for the rest of the day, and the rest of the day proved quite entertaining.

From his first shot on #8, Jake knew his ad hoc partner Alan was good. Turned out he was real good, the best golfer Jake has ever played with. A dentist in Brunswick, GA, Alan was on the Georgia University Golf Team and in 2005 played in the US Amateur at Merion. But that was not the most famous course Alan had played. Alan had played Augusta twice (he had caddied there for a couple years as a young man), and even more impressively, Pine Valley, which is usually thought to be the best golf course in America.

How had he managed to get on these famously private courses? Jake asked. Seems Alan knows "some people in Cincinnati," among them Bill Giles, son of former National League President Warren Giles. Bill helped found the Houston Astros (aka Colt 45s) and is chairman emeritus of the Philadelphia Phillies. Nice guy to know. Since Alan will turn 55 in 2018, he hopes to qualify for the 2018 USGA Senior Amateur Championship out in Oregon.

When Jake asked him why he was on the little 9-holer that day, Alan said he liked the challenge of the small, fast greens, the leisurely pace of play, and the fact that he could often play several balls on each hole. "I learn more here in one day than I could on those other eighteen-holers in a week."

Jake and Stone watched the first half (and half-time show) of the Super Bowl at Jekyll's Hampton Inn. Concerned that there might be either too many people there to make it easy to find a good seat, or not enough people there to make it fun, the bar area turned out to be Goldilocks perfect. Amid just enough fans to make it festive without it being obnoxiously loud, Jake and Stone enjoyed their wine, beers, crab cakes, hot dog and mac and cheese. Back at the ranch they watched the weird and dramatic ending which made this Super Bowl so memorable.

Monday, February 2, 2015 -- Since arriving in coastal Georgia the weather had been actually a little cool for these weeks in Jekyll, with wake-up lows in the 30s and afternoon highs in the mid-50s. Of course such temps are fine for Jake and Stone. But this morning they woke up to wind and rain. A perfect day once again to get off the island and head to one of their favorite cities -- Savannah, GA.

With the requisite drive-up stop at Dunkin' behind them, our pair rolled into Savannah about 90 minutes after leaving Jekyll. The rain was over by the time they finished their late breakfast at Goose Feathers, a stylish, friendly and efficient downtown cafe/bakery near the Savannah River. They walked to Bull Street and headed north. bought a couple of books at Shaver Book Store (where they still do inventory by hand!), visited an inn they had previously stayed at, took the always-necessary look at the childhood home of writer Flannery O'Connor, were unable to look inside St. John the Baptist Cathedral (services going on), but still admired the French Gothic exterior, walked back towards the Savannah River to feed the parking meter, walked along the tourist shops right beside the river, and then headed north again into Savannah's historic district where, indeed, something historic happened.

History in the making

At the Barber Pole,  110 Bull Street, on 2/2/15, Jake got a beard trim and haircut, his first such servicing in at least 30 years. He suffered being fussed over by the young woman perfectionist who wielded her scissors and razor with the gravity of a medieval stone mason working on Notre Dame. But once the ordeal was over, Jake had to admit he looked very sharp.

Stone checked her i-pod's (remember those gadgets, kids?) pedometer feature and noted they had walked the magic 10,000 steps. Lunch was thus in order. And a wonderful one it was at the Public Kitchen + Bar at the intersection of Liberty and Bull.

Tuesday, February 3, 2015 -- The morning weather was so cool Jake's cup of coffee steamed as he looked out towards the Atlantic Ocean from his balcony perch.  He could hear the waves crashing on the rocks. This was a simple day. Jake played nine windy and cold holes at Great Dunes, while Stone walked the beach in front of the receding tide. After some mid-day relaxation and the usual power naps, Jake and Stone ate at the best, and nearly only, restaurant on the island during these winter weeks. They enjoyed shrimp and grits, a peach cobbler desert, and shared a $15 bottle of wine, the unused portion of which was wrapped in a paper bag for transportation back to the 2BR hideaway.

Wednesday, February 4, 2015 -- The cool weather continued this morning, so Jake and Stone decided to explore some more of Jekyll's surrounding sights and drove about an hour due west to the Laura S. Walker State Park near Waycross, GA. Georgia has a wonderful state park system, and eight of the parks have golf courses.

The Lakes Course's Humps and Lumps

Jake and Stone were able to get out alone on the Lakes Course -- Jake playing and Stone along for the walk. Thought Jake's game this day was as horrible as it ever is (which is pretty bad), the course proved to be a fun, humpy-lumpy-undulating layout that is so well-cared for that our couple ran into two course workers who were assiduously picking up cigarette butts from the grass. Not something one sees in Jersey.

Having lost touch with his inner golfer, Jake did find his inner ornithologist and joined Stone in paying particular attention to the birds on the course. With binoculars in hand, our duo tallied a great egret, a great blue heron, many cormorants, a mocking bird and a small yellow-chested bird that remained unclassified. But the best avian thrill came on hole #17 when they spotted an eagle who, as if to show off, flew no more than 50 yards above their heads as they stood, mouths agape, on the green. Ah, golf is always a wonderful game.

On the way back they ate at Jerry J's Country Cafe in Nahunta, GA. Jerry J's was a unique mixture of cafe and fast food where everyone seemed to know everyone else. On the bottom of their receipt Jake noticed this addendum to the usual tally of dollars and cents: "O taste and see that the LORD (sic) is good." Not something one sees in Jersey.

The rain started again in the late afternoon enhancing the relaxation vibe. After dinner Jake and Stone watched a movie on TCM, then Jake went for a solitary walk in the nighttime drizzle hoping to find a spot to enjoy his cigar. The seaside boardwalk and its small gazebo proved to be too windy, but walking towards the lobby of  Villas by the Sea (the condo/resort where they rented their place), Jake noticed two rocking chairs hidden from the rain under a little roofed niche at some remove from the lobby entrance.

He was at first unsure that cigar smoking would not be frowned upon, but then noticed,  -- Oh, Providence! -- between the rocking chairs, a common device used by smokers to put out their cigarettes before entering a public place. Obviously he could enjoy his H. Uppman cigar out of the rain and wind, and be admonished by no one, except perhaps the American Cancer Society. One couple pulled who into the parking lot, late-night arriving for their check-in and stepping quickly in the light rain, even inquired if the cigar was good.  Jake nodded yes, yes indeed.

Thursday, February 5, 2015 -- A morning of what weather people often term "lingering showers," so Jake and Stone take advantage of the poor weather to go off-island again. It's a quick ride over the cable-stayed bridge that dominates this part of the Golden Isles to the island of St. Simons. "The Village" of St. Simons is at the southern tip of the island. Here our couple walked out on the pier, then along a short waterside promenade to the St. Simons Lighthouse where they toured the small museum and climbed the 129 steps to the top of the lighthouse to see the panoramic view. Afterwards, they walked only a little way into the neighborhood and discovered this quiet scene.

The pier at St. Simons Island

People on Jekyll complain that St. Simons is a busy and commercial place, which it certainly is. But the upside of all that is a whole raft of places to have lunch, even in the winter. Our duo enjoyed a very nice midday repast of wild Georgia shrimp roll, she crab soup, and spanakopita, attended by Jake's Stella Artois and Stone's hot tea, at the popular Palm Coast Coffee Cafe and Pub.

Heading northward on St Simons, Jake and Stone had hoped to walk through the historic Christ Church, but were too early for the tours. They did get to walk the church's expansive grounds which are filled with giant live oak trees (the live oak is Georgia's state tree) draped in Spanish moss.

They also got to walk through the church's cemetery, one of the oldest in Georgia. Its oldest grave dates to 1803. Perhaps it was the many family plots that spanned generations, or the several confederate soldiers' grave that spoke of the specific battles where they died, or the familiar names from what Jake and Stone had recently learned of coastal Georgia history. But for whatever reason, both Jake and Stone found this cemetery -- which could more properly be called a large graveyard -- to be more redolent of the past than other cemeteries they had visited.

Just up the road from Christ Church is Fort Frederica National Park. At first Jake didn't want to go, but Stone talked him into it. Here are the remnants of the British colony (founded by James Oglethorpe, who did nothing less than establish Georgia itself as a British colony) and its defensive fort. A small piece of the fort is still standing, but what is particularly moving when visiting this site are the remnants of the individual houses that formed the small 1730s colony.

As they walked down what was once called Broad Street and looked at the dozen or so  foundations of previous homes, both Jake and Stone found the scene to be much more "historical" and emotionally involving than anything they had seen in the colonial recreations of places like Williamsburg, VA. To realize that John Wesley had walked the same grounds and preached to the colonists almost 300 years ago -- before he founded the Methodist movement -- was for Jake, and old history major, quite a thrill.

Friday February 6, 2015 -- Having a long bike ride planned for the morning, it only seemed right to fuel up first, so Jake and Stone repaired to the Waffle House for the third and last time. After biking past the Horton House, a graveyard and the island's small airport, they parked their bikes at the Jekyll Hotel and got some pastries and coffee from Club Cafe.

Outside the Jekyll Hotel's Club Cafe

While Stone stayed back at the bungalow to relax, Jake did nine holes on the Pine Lakes course, playing -- as is not unusual on Jekyll in winter -- with three nice Canadians, all down for 2-3 months tours. After lunch and a snooze, it was time to go the beach boardwalk and see their final sunset. Dinner (wonderful she crab soup) and drinks were had at Vincent's, an intimate ground-floor bar/pub in the Jekyll Hotel. On the nighttime drive up North Beach Drive, they noticed a more than usual number of off-shore ships out in the dark Atlantic, their lights twinkling brightly.

As they drove along, on the horizon they thought there might be a really big freighter or some other large ship suddenly coming into view with its lights seemingly blaring. A minute later, they realized the luminescence was the moon, cloud-shrouded and waning, rising ever so slowly over the water's dark edge.

Saturday, February 7, 2015 -- When they woke up from their respective naps -- it had been a nearly 10 hr drive from Jekyll to Orange, VA -- Jake and Stone pulled aside their Holiday Inn Express window curtains to see a sunset that was as vibrant as the previous night's moon rise had been muted. Over Virginia's Southwest Mountains -- a mountain range centered in Charlottesville and is sort of a hilly suburb of the more famous Blue Ridge Mountains -- the sky was a carnival of reds, pinks and purples, set against a blue that could only be termed "Jeffersonian."

The dramatic sunset lingered for maybe 15 or 20 more minutes, but by the time Jake and Stone got to the Restaurant  Pomme in Gordonsville, VA, night had certainly taken center stage. As they did last year in Staunton, VA, Jake and Stone rendezvoused with longtime friends, the Labetts and the Farles, for a wine-filled, laughter-intense, delicious two-hours-plus at this French restaurant that perfectly enhanced the night's warmth and bonhomie.

On Sunday, as Jake and Stone drove home, they would not see snow on the ground until about Exit 8 on the turnpike. But even at home, turning up the heat, petting the cat, unpacking, and making the necessary phone calls, it was still easy to look out on the stark, white backyard, and recall the Jekyll backyard of trees and beach grass, of greens and blues.

Other Places

Stonewalled in West Virginia

Stonewall Resort and Lodge

These establishments are upscale in all areas. Accommodations are progressively more refined and stylish. The physical attributes reflect an obvious enhanced level of quality throughout. The fundamental hallmarks at this level include an extensive array of amenities combined with a high degree of hospitality, service, and attention to detail.

That's the AAA describing their "4-Diamond" criteria for hotels and resorts, a rating which only 5% of their reviewed properties achieve. When Jake and Stone discovered that a West Virginia state park resort had been so rated, it demanded further investigation. Further investigation revealed many bike and hiking trails, reasonable (at this time of year) 2-3 BR lakeside cottage rentals, a top-flight Arnold Palmer Signature golf course on site, and indeed "an extensive array of amenities." Plus, on the way down there is a nice riverside bike trail in Morgantown, WV.... Road trip!

 Sunday, October 26, 2014 -- It's not a short drive from NJ to this part of West Virginia, but it is a drive that is basically all interstate highways once on I-78 West. And I-68 West out of Hagerstown, MD, is a wonderfully hilly route, with elevations reaching 2,000' as the road snakes its way through this skinny part of Maryland before arriving just outside Morgantown.

Morgantown is the home of West Virginia University, but it wasn't until Jake and Stone had progressed through much of the town that they noticed the environs surrendering their hard scrabble, nearly-hillbilly look to the more upscale tone of the typical, big-time college town to be found along High Street. And while WVU might be a big time university (thanks mostly to its football status), Morgantown is pretty much a small town of about 30,000.

   

The Caperton Bike Trail in Morgantown

Brunch at Table 9 in Morgantown

Running through Morgantown is the Caperton Bike Trail, which is paved all six of its riverside miles. Here Jake and Stone biked a few miles beside the Monongahela River (which actually flows northward, a rarity for American rivers), enjoying the splendid late fall foliage and the surprising emptiness of this quite wonderful trail. As the trail runs through downtown there are several eateries right along the trail. At the new Table 9, our couple enjoyed a relaxing river-view brunch highlighted by biscuits with sausage gravy and short ribs hash with eggs washed down by properly brunch-afied alcoholic libations such as prosecco and pomegranate juice. A delicious way to get one's antioxidants!

From Morgantown to the Stonewall Resort was but an hour's drive down yet another rolling highway, this time I-79 south. The Stonewall is a new resort, finished in 2002. It sits waterside on a large, meandering lake created when the Army Corps of Engineers constructed a floor-control dam. The many resort amenities include two restaurants, a spa, indoor-outdoor pool with Jacuzzis, a fitness room, marina, fire pit, and water-craft rentals. Its Adirondack/Mission-style main hall is at once homey and impressive, highlighted by a castle-size, real wood-burning fireplace.

View from cottage's deck

The fireplace in Jake and Stone's 2BR cottage was (understandably) gas, but the cottage itself was furnished in the same rustic style as the resort. The cottage had a full kitchen, two BRs, both with very comfortable beds, fast and easy Wi-Fi, and a small pine-shaded deck complete with a BBQ and lake view. Perfect for our couple. Dinner this night was tuna pasta and other goodies brought from home. Did someone say "chillax"?

 Monday, October 27, 2014 -- The fine, unexpected summer-like weather continued on this Monday. Breakfast at Stillwaters (the resort's main restaurant) offered lake views, a varied menu, okay service, and good food. Here it is most obvious that Stonewall, though fairly luxurious and physically impressive, is a staunchly middle-class enclave. It's very much a family oriented place with golfers often being the best dressed people in the room. Still, at breakfast Jake and Stone did meet a recently retired cardiac surgeon, so the clientèle is not strictly proletariat. Most importantly, Stonewall is a resort where everyone seems to feel at ease. And isn't that the basic idea of a resort?

After breakfast our duo went for a nice 1-mile+ hike through the woods to Chipmunk Point and saw absolutely no one else on the single-file trail. (Of course, it is pretty much end of the season at this point in October.) After this bit of exercise, Stone went in search of other hikes and  Jake went to the much-ballyhooedArnold Palmer golf course. Jake's game suffered from the slow play (not unusual at resort courses), the cart-paths-only rule of the day, and many simply poor golf swings. But the course proved to be worthy of its consistent praise -- eg, it's usually ranked as the #2 course in WV behind the venerable Greenbriar -- with near-perfect course conditions, dramatic vistas, and elevation changes often 60 feet or higher.

The Palmer Course at Stonewall, WV

This course had more picturesque holes than any course Jake could remember playing, and he deeply rued his camera's lack of a charged battery. Luckily, Stone was on the balcony of Lightburn's restaurant and got a shot of Jake (and partners) as they finished the final hole. These eighteen holes are certainly worth the money, which on this morning -- admittedly, but days before the end of the golf season here -- was only $58 with (mandatory) cart.

After their hikes and golf, our couple had their martinis on the resort's large patio. From their Adirondack chairs they watched some deer far across the water come down to the lake for a drink. Jake and Stone could only hope that the deer enjoyed their water as much as they enjoyed their vodka. Back at the cottage is was prepared salads from Wegman's, steaks on the BBQ grill, some wine, and West Virginia gloaming views.

Feeling recharged after dinner, they walked the mile back to the lodge for a dip in the pool(s) and the hot waters of the jacuzzis. It seemed only proper to patronize the bar again, so they were soon on the patio again, in their Adirondack chairs again, while a group of feeling-no-pain patrons laughed it up at the nearby (real, wood-burning) fire pit.  The deer were now surely sleeping, and soon, after a walk back to the cottage beneath the star-filled sky, our couple did the same, a rest that was more slumber than mere sleep.

Tuesday, October 28, 2014 -- The unusually warm weather turned more autumnal this day, but it was not so cool or so terribly windy as to prohibit another shot at golf. So after breakfast at Stillwaters our couple headed to the nearby town of Buckhannon and the 9-hole  Buckhannon Country Club. They planned to walk the nine holes (Stone along just for the hike), but found that this old, quaint, interesting mom-and-pop establishment didn't rent pull carts, only the ride-in kind. Soon it became clear why. Only the hearty would walk the BCC nine holes. Relentlessly up and down, this sometimes quirky layout, with its old-time small greens, proved to be quite a challenge, and in the end it was more fun for Jake than the famous Palmer course at Stonewall.

Stone shows Jake how to putt at
the hilly Buckhannon County Club

Back at the cottage is was time for lunch from the brought-along provisions, and an apres-food nap. Then another nice walk to the lodge, during which the bluest blue bird they had ever seen enlivened the stroll. At the lodge they joined about 20 other guests in boarding the Little Sorrel excursion boat for an hour-long "cruise" on the lake. Thence it was back to the cottage for dinner. Thinking "why not?" our couple went back to the lodge for a final dip, jacuzz and the requisite drinks on the patio.

Finally back to stay at the cottage, their previous afternoon naps allowed them to stay up late this last night and watch the San Francisco Giants win the World Series. That victory seemed a proper ending to this season's travel, since it was but a few months ago that Jake and Stone were in San Francisco watching the Giants' Tim Lincecum no-hit the San Diego Padres. So, another winning season all around.

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(Northern) California Dreaming

Sonoma Coastal View

Russian River and Highway 1 Overpass

Stone and Jake got engaged 35 years ago in San Francisco, so when the chance came up to visit this seminal (so to speak!) part of the country it was impossible to pass up. Their trip to the best of the West Coast would center on a three-day family event based out of Guerneville, California, a small town of pleasure, wine and fun on the Russian River in Sonoma County. But before and after the family event, they had plans to see an old Army pal in St. Helena, soak up some California mist and coastal views around Bodega Bay, and spend their last night in the city where their life together came together.

The Head at Bodega Bay

Majestic Window View

Wednesday, June 18, 2014 --  Maybe the best $79 (each) they spent all trip was on the extra leg room for the six hour United flight to San Francisco.  Compared to other long plane rides this was a breeze. And the skies were so clear for so much of the flight that they were able to marvel again at the size of America and the geological wonders it holds. Jake felt especially mystical flying over the Rocky Mountains, and though he tried to see his home town of Boulder, Colorado, it escaped his earnest vision. Still, the majesty of these snow-topped peaks was inspirational. (In fact, "purple mountain majesties" refers to the Rockies.)


The car rental went well, as did exiting the airport(!), and soon they were driving northward on 19th Avenue in the Sunset District of San Francisco, then through Golden Gate Park, then through the Presidio, and then, with a seeming visual Bang! -- The Bridge appeared. To drive over the Golden Gate Bridge on a clear day is not unlike seeing the Rockies from on high. "Wow" doesn't do either one justice.

Stone at Sunflower Caffe

The town of Sonoma proved to be a great first stop. Lunch at the Sunflower Caffe was enjoyed on the chatty yet somehow serene rear patio, where on a typically sunny day the shade felt typically cool, and the two glasses of wine (a Sauvignon Blanc and a Rosé de Pinot Noir, both from the local Chaname Winery) tasted typically great. Sonoma Plaza (a link to the town's Mexican past) anchors an immediate area that bristles with shops and eating places. And Jake and Stone did both, buying a much-needed quilt at Summervine, and a sort-of-needed java and pastry at the Basque Cafe Boulangerie.


The drive from Sonoma to St. Helena seems rather easy on the map, and the shortcut of Trinity Road looks inviting -- on the map! In reality, Trinity Road is a harrowing/fun experience not for the faint of heart. Jake grew up in Colorado driving many a twisting trail in the foothills of the Rockies, but this thin ribbon of seriously-up and then seriously-down asphalt, with never the hint of a shoulder, was like nothing he had ever experienced. Rarely was it possible to see more than 150 yards ahead before the next turn, and on-coming traffic was often apparent thrill-seekers in sports cars. For a taste of things see this video, aptly titled: Trinity Road in my Miata, scaring my girlfriend.

B&B Front Door View

Having survived, our couple checked into Judy's B&B in St. Helena. The entire B&B consists of a single large, if somewhat dark room, with a convenient private entrance that looks out onto a vineyard, an adequate bathroom (shower, no tub) and a comfortable queen bed. Though the breakfast on both of their mornings at Judy's was the same -- French toast, bacon, eggs and coffee -- it was tasty and conveniently served in their room. 

Judy is a charming proprietress of senior status, whose life goes back long enough that she has personal mementos from Red Skelton when he used to play to the tourist crowds in Reno, Nevada -- years before Las Vegas became Las Vegas. St. Helena is a small town, so it was of little surprise that she remembered Jake's old Army friend when he was but a boy playing in the neighborhood and occasionally helping out with the fledgling family winery.

Expensive Drinks but a Free View

That first late afternoon Jake and Stone took an easy ten minute ride to the  Augerge Bistro & Bar in Rutherford. Here they shared two reasonably priced apps of spinach and shrimp, and two not-so-reasonably priced cocktails ($17 and $19). The food was quite nice. However, the drinks lacked punch (a polite way of saying they seemed light on the alcohol component). But the bistro fare was secondary to the wide and wonderful patio view, which is what draws most folks to the bistro, and is as fine a vista as any in Napa.

From their perch on the railing they got in touch with their inner ornithologists and spotted several odd looking small woodpeckers they had never seen in Jersey. Later Googling revealed that these birds were Acorn Woodpeckers, who are notable for living in large groups, hoarding acorns (often by the hundreds) in holes they make in trees, and the fact that they "cooperate in their breeding." (The ornithologists' polite wording here should be noted by rogue Mormons seeking societal approval of their breeding.)

Dinner that first night in St. Helena was at Tra Vigne. This long-established Napa Valley restaurant boasts a gracious building and a large patio that provide a sort of Tuscany-in-California vibe that is reflected in its food. Jake and Stone enjoyed their mussels, salad, seafood fritto misto (Italian: "mixed fried"), panna cotta and wine. But the most enjoyable part of the meal was the patio and the Napa early evening air, with its hints of cool slowly replacing the warmth of the day.

Thursday, June 19, 2014 -- This was the day Jake and his Army Pal had scheduled to get together for the first time in 35 years. There is a bond among those who serve in the Army during a war. This is true even if that war is "undeclared." It is true even if that service is rendered, not in bunkers, but in the windowed offices of  Army Headquarters in Long Binh, Vietnam. It is true even if the bi-weekly guard duty on the Long Binh perimeter line requires "grenade juggling" (not as dangerous as it sounds, and quite hilarious the first time one sees it) to pass the boring nighttime hours. It is true even if the closest one comes to death is riding in a jeep driven by some Army hophead on the way to the pleasures of the city once termed the "Pearl of the Orient," but in those war years simply called Saigon, and now on the world's maps Ho Chi Minh City.

Long Ago in Long Binh

Jake's Army Pal (who, like all individuals mentioned in this blog, will  be given the semi-privacy of a "blog-onymn") was a most memorable guy. He burst onto the HQ scene by mistyping a transportation order. The result was that General William J. McCaffrey, who was nothing less than the Deputy Commander of U.S. forces in Vietnam, instead of being on his way to meet his wife for a week in Hong Kong, was "marooned" in Bangkok for "a full 24 hours!!" Army Pal was threatened with everything from tour-long KP duty to guard duty on the DMZ, but he somehow survived the storm.

(It should be noted that the brouhaha in our HQ office that day was generated not by the general himself, who reportedly found a bit of humor in this bureaucratic contretemps, but by his many underlings. Perhaps the general's professional equanimity helps explain why his son General Barry McCaffrey has had a career, including his current duties as military analyst for NBC, even more distinguished than his famous father's.)

The loud laughter at Army Pal's mistake soon turned to quiet awe, however, when several months later the female lead singer of a USO-sponsored rock band from Canada invited him to spend the night with her in Saigon. Such a liaison-in-Saigon gave him legendary status within the "hootch" (barracks) and beyond. And finally, and most memorably for Jake, during their shared R&R week in Sydney, Jake and another GI were happy to play wingmen to Army Pal's somehow finding three young Aussie women to accompany us during our week in Australia.  

The fledgling winery that their B&B hostess Judy had remembered being a family business when Army Pal was but a boy playing about the neighborhood, has now become, due largely to  the work of Army Pal and his older brother, nothing less than one of the top five wine producers in the world. It is likely most readers of this blog have tasted one of their wines --  likely a Sutter Home zinfandel or more likely, Sutter Home's white zinfandel.

It is the white zin which, some three decades ago, not only put Sutter Home on the map, but thanks to Army Pal's sending Jake and Stone about five or six cases of it in 1980 for their wedding, put that happy event on the map as well. (Being ever resourceful,  the cases were labeled "vinegar" so he could mail them to New York.)

The Napa Valley Country Club

Tee with a View at the NVCC

Army Pal and Jake had a wonderful day together. First was an early morning round of golf at the gorgeous Napa Valley Country Club followed by lunch in the clubhouse. Later in the day Stone joined them for an inside look at the massive operations of Sutter Home (and the more high-end Trinchero winery), where it was not unusual to see Army Pal greet many employees by name. He even got a hug from a woman on the massive bottle-filing assembly line. Little wonder Army Pal and his family-held business have been such successes.

Army Pal picked up the tab for dinner that night as well. He brought along a special bottle of zinfandel to the Archetype restaurant in St. Helena. Perhaps it was the conversation about our children (his three boys, our one girl), or the convivial presence of Army Pal's ex-wife who joined us, or the wine, or the food (warm sugar snap peas, Alaskan halibut, Niman Ranch lamb, meyer lemon meringue pie), or all the above. Whatever the reason(s), it proved to be this trip's best food and our couple's favorite dinner.

Friday, June 20, 2014 -  On the way from St. Helena to Guerneville, CA ( which was HQ for the upcoming weekend family event), Jake and Stone stopped at the 5,500 acre Annadel State Park outside Santa Rosa for a hike. The summer temps in this part of Sonoma County range from around 50 at night to about 90 during the afternoon. Luckily, our duo arrived early enough to enjoy the coolish morning. And they needed the cool as their hike on Steve's S Trail was short but strenuous, climbing 489 feet in less than a mile.

The Patio at Corks

They had hoped that lunch at Corks Restaurant at Russian River Vineyards (Forestville, CA) would be a proper reward for their early-morning alpine efforts, and it was that, and more. This proved to be their favorite lunch, with food and drink so good it deserves listing: salad of local greens, grilled Castroville artichoke, Bodega Bay fish and chips, dried cherry quinoa; a chardonnay and a sauvignon blanc, and (with the fish and chips) a Scrimshaw brewski. All of this was enjoyed on a large patio with dappled sunshine and servers happy in their work.

After lunch the road towards Guerneville proved to be another twisty drive through hilly and forested terrain, but with a new twist -- a peacock! The peacock took its merry time leaving the road, then paraded proudly on the side of the road, its home certainly somewhere nearby.

Jake Among the Redwoods

Just outside Guerneville, right on California Route 116, is Northwood Golf Club, one of America's best 9-hole public golf courses and ranked  #10 by Golf Digest. It dates from 1928, was designed by Alistair MacKenzie while he was out on the coast designing fabled Cypress Point, and plays through canyons of mighty redwood trees. When Jake played on this Friday afternoon, with Stone riding non-playing shotgun in the cart, the course was crowded with tourists and family golfers. But it was still an absolute joy and (despite houses on the course's edges) is highly recommended. Best to go early in the day.

That evening Jake and Stone checked into their Guerneville lodging and looked forward to the family event that was to occupy that night and the next two days. The event celebrated the 50th wedding anniversary of a couple who have made friends from Paris to Houston, and it was no surprise that so many of them made the trip to California. There is no need here to chronicle the private three days in any detail, suffice it to say they included: a tour and luncheon pig roast at the Michel Schumberger winery, a gourmet pizza dinner amid the redwoods at Simi Winery, a visit to a remarkable garden, shopping in Healdsburg, CA, and on the final night, an exclusive after-hours dinner and dancing at the Francis Ford Coppola Winery Pavilion.


Monday, June 23, 2014 -- Jake and Stone had been joined on the Northwood golf course the previous Friday afternoon by a local young man who, upon hearing that Jake wanted to play "that new links course in Bodega Bay," said he knew some people at the course. As we finished the round, the young man texted his contacts (you know these young folks hate to use the phone to make a phone call) and informed Jake that he was scheduled for a  discounted tee time at 10:30 on Monday morning.

"Harbour" View at Bodega Bay

For Jake (with Stone once again in the cart as COCM -- Chief Officer in Charge of Morale), The Links at Bodega Harbour (the "u" hints at its aspirations to be a "golf getaway") played more difficult than its ratings and slope would make one think. On the positive side, No. 18 is a memorable closing hole, and the course overall not only has some stunning seaside views, but also a true links feel with deep bunkers, uneven lies, some blind shots, and challenging/fun greens. On the negative side, it is a course that is almost impossible to walk -- the first several uphill holes would wear out all but the most hardy, much of the course has surrounding housing, and Jake had the suspicion now and then that the links-feel has been sometimes more invented than found. Its layout is most likely subject to morning fog delays and certainly subject to strong winds -- which Jake and Stone experienced first-hand on this Monday morning. Still, if you are a dedicated golfer and in the Bodega Bay area, it is certainly worth it -- even at full price.

The drive from Guerneville to the Bodega Bay golf course via California Highway 1 is famous for its views of

the rugged grandeur of the coastline, but the early Monday morning fog had hidden many of the views. So that afternoon after driving a bit around Bodega Bay, Jake and Stone drove back northward -- enjoying the views all the way -- towards the coastal town of Jenner, where they made dinner reservations for Tuesday night  at Rivers End Restaurant.

Morning Fog on Highway 1

Checking into the Bodega Bay Inn (a family run place) they found their room (#3) to be better than the inn's setting, which was between Highway 1 and a small strip mall. But the room was large, with Wi-Fi that was fast, and a comfortable king bed. The proximity to the strip mall did have two advantages -- Roadhouse Coffee (where they found out they would get the included breakfast that came with their staying at the inn) and one of the best restaurants in town -- Terrapin Creek.

Dinner that night was at Drake's Fireside Lounge, an informal bistro room at the posh Bodega Bay Lodge. Featuring an expansive water view of the lowlands of Bodega Harbor, Drake's three-cheese plate (cow, goat and sheep), "fog soup," fettuccine/halibut and seafood platter were all delicious, as were the martinis and wine. Not inexpensive, Drake's made for a lovely end to a lovely day. 

Stone on the Pool Ridge Trail

Tuesday, June 24, 2014 -- If there is anything that can match the breathtaking coastal views of this part of northern California, it is the breathtaking walks through old-growth redwood trees. Armstrong Woods State Natural Preserve gave our duo a chance to "walk among the giants." To realize that several of these trees are  300+ feet tall and 1300+ years old only adds to the wonder of it all. Jake and Stone followed the easy, much-traveled Pioneer Nature Trail, then the Pool Ridge Trail, which was not easy and not much-traveled, but oh so worth the effort when they reached the top of the trail (about 500 feet uphill) and started to descend among the cooling breezes and butterflies.


On their way to Armstrong, Jake and Stone had stopped in the little town of Duncan Mills at the Gold Coast Coffee and Bakery where they enjoyed pastries and coffee on the bird-friendly back patio. On the way back they stopped again in Duncan Mills for lunch at the Cape Fear Cafe. At the height of lunch hour the one-chef kitchen was overwhelmed and it took a while to get their lunch of Thai pasta and shrimp (with a nice Rodney Strong Sauvignon blanc), burger and fries (with a nice Great White beer form Lost Coast Brewery) to arrive, but like the back side of their earlier hike, it was worth it. To walk off the lunch, Stone did some shopping while Jake walked shotgun through a couple of nice local stores.

No trip to Bodega Bay is complete without a visit to Bodega Bay Head, a promontory that offers maybe the most dramatic coastal views in Sonoma County. That afternoon the strong winds had the surf up and the many birds hanging magically in mid-air. On that afternoon, the Head was both majestic and wild.

Heading back into town proper, Stone's phone got an email from Rivers End Restaurant saying a road closure had forced them to cancel dinners for that evening. Disappointed, but sure of other places almost as good, Jake and Stone headed for the aforementioned Terrapin Creek. Closed on Tuesdays, said the sign. Well, the Blue Bistro out by the links course had looked nice. Closes on Mon-Wed at 5pm, said the sign. No problem. To the Tides Wharf Restaurant. The large dining room doesn't look real appealing and seems dominated by a post-wedding crowd. Fisherman's Cove, down by the harbor?  They drive by. No need for a closed sign. Not a car in the parking lot. So how about that big place off Highway 1? Lucas Wharf Restaurant and Bar. Open says the sign.

Out the Window at Lucas Wharf

By this time on a Tuesday night in Bodega Bay, Jake and Stone are quickly offered a water-view window, featuring nearby pelicans and distant windsurfers. Also, it being Tuesday, bottles of wine are half-priced. Good old Tuesday.... The Lucas clam chowder was disappointing in the way that many chowders are disappointing (too many potatoes, not enough clams), but the main entrées of rockfish and  petrale sol (think not sol but flounder) were very nice, and the bottle of Dry Creek sauvignon blanc was a good deal at $14, and was paper-bag wrapped to go out the door. All's well that ends well.

Wednesday, June 25, 2014 -- The "breakfast" that comes with a room at the Bodega Bay Inn is actually pastry and coffee at the across-the-parking-lot Roadhouse Coffee. Both yesterday and today our couple had to do without the pastries, but the coffee was good and the scene colorfully local (as might guessed from their "home page.")

Somehow Jake and Stone strayed from their Highway 1 route south toward San Francisco and ended up seeing much of Petaluma, which was a nice enough town, but.... Back on famous 1, they enjoyed the ride through Point Reyes National Seashore (here, 1 is actually two miles from the seashore but still fun to drive), especially liked the many shorebirds along the Bolinas Lagoon, and then were exhilarated by the headland views of Stinson Beach. The exhilaration continued as 1 became a twisty trip through the dramatic hillsides of Marin County until it joined Highway 101 just above Sausalito.

Stone with the Cliff House in the distance

Looks good in fog

Driving across the Golden Gate Bridge is wonderful on a clear day, but just as inspiring (and perhaps more iconic) in the fog. After the bridge it was easy enough to get to the Columbus Motor Inn in the North Beach section of San Francisco. Here the staff could not have been more accommodating, helping Jake and Stone get the bus (right outside the hotel) to AT&T Park where they saw an afternoon baseball game between the Giants and the Padres, followed that evening by a final dinner at Sutro's in the fabled Cliff House.

Teammates rushing the mound after Lincecum's no-hitter

Oh, and BTW, that Wednesday afternoon Tim Lincecum threw a no-hitter!

Thirty-five years ago, their last day in San Francisco had ended with Jake and Stone's engagement. This time with an a no-hitter. Both happen once in a lifetime -- if you're lucky. And they are.

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