36 Hours in “The Springs”

Pikes Peak from Sondermann Park

Long, long ago, in a galaxy far, far away.... Growing up in Boulder, Colorado, Jake knew Colorado Springs as a tourist town down south somewhere, and locally called "The Springs." In 1954 Colorado Springs was put more emphatically on the map when Congress established the Air Force Academy there. Soon the major tourist attractions of Pikes Peak, The Broadmoor Hotel, and the Garden of the Gods had a new member. It wasn't long until many Americans discovered that the lyrics of “America the Beautiful” were inspired by the region's “purple mountain majesties,” and “The Springs” was securely put on the map to stay.

For Jake and Stone, the allure of Colorado Springs was pretty simple. It was but a little over an hour via I-25 South from their home in Littleton, and the the city is home to the Sky Sox, the triple-A baseball team for the Milwaukee Brewers. A quick one-night visit seemed perfect.

Thursday, June 17, 2018: The drive down I-25 took longer than usual because near the end our couple arrived in Colorado Springs during their version of the morning rush-hour. The Marigold Bakery opened at 8 AM, and but minutes after that, Jake and Stone were enjoying a pastry-and-coffee breakfast. The croissants and scones were still warm from the oven. A good croissant has been hard to find so far during their Colorado relocation, but Marigold provided an excellent version, as well as delightful scones. Our duo took one each for the road, and a package of their Marigold Coffee to try at home.

The morning was filled with golf for Jake and a hike for Stone. Sondermann Park was a bit of a happy surprise. Within the city limits of Colorado Springs, it still gave Stone a feeling now and then of wilderness. It is a small park with a little nature center, trails, a small creek, plenty of birds, and a good view of Pikes Peak (see above). The lack of snow on the 14,114 foot mountain is evidence of the relatively mild and dry winter experienced by all of Colorado.

The lack of the normal spring snow-smelt was mentioned to Jake by several golfers who said the lack of moisture was the main reason the course was in such poor shape. The Patty Jewett Municipal Golf Course was indeed in poor shape, but even in the best of conditions its 27-hole layout and city setting are generally mundane. However, this busy course does have some great views of Pikes Peak, a friendly vibe, and a fair price. But what makes a visit worthwhile is the clubhouse and the course's history. 

Patty Jewett opened in 1898. It is the second (or third?) oldest golf club west of the Mississippi River. The clubhouse is redolent of what was turn-of-the-century luxury, with old-time leather sofas and stained-glass table lamps. The large trophy case houses several wonderful items from at least 1905, plaques, pictures, clubs, and other memorabilia that make it a small golf museum. The men's locker room looks like something out of The Legend of BaggerVance. The bar area (with porch) has nice views of the course and a great view of Pikes Peak, cheap food, lots of beers, and an abundance of golfer bonhomie. In 2008 it was listed among the best 19thHoles by Golf Digest. Ten years later it might no longer make that list, but is still most worthy of a visit.

Mountain Shadows Restaurant on Colorado Blvd provided our couple with just what they were looking for. A local place with good food and cold Coors Banquet beer in those little stubby bottles that are just so retro cool. Both Jake's BLT wrap with side of greens, and Stone's Philly cheese steak were lunch-perfect. The service was quick and infused with that Colorado vibe of smiling chattiness. The clientele was nicely diverse – including four female soldiers from nearby Fort Carson, two young families on vacation sporting several toddlers, a heavily tattooed couple, two highway workers, two likely students from Colorado College, and an elderly couple.

Jake and Stone checked themselves in (via security lock code) to the St. Mary's Inn and B&B. One of the more expensive B&Bs in Colorado Springs, our duo felt it was still a very good deal for their $200 and change. They got a free upgrade(!) to the Ash Suite, found the location and easy parking to be good, and enjoyed a breakfast which was as tasty as it gets. This is a much awarded B&B and deservingly so.

Martinis at the Broadmoor Bar

View out the window

After their naps, Jake and Stone headed to the much heralded and world-famous Broadmoor Hotel in search of an upper-class martini. Jake had vague memories of visiting there before, but this time he was in awe of nearly everything. Even the martini greatly exceeded both memory and expectation. Little needs to be said here about this magnificent Colorado treasure that is both legendary and cordial. After Rocky Mountain National Park, our duo would place the Broadmoor on their Colorado not-to-be missed list.

Sky Sox beat the Red Birds

Delayed by strolling around the magnificence of the Broadmoor, our couple got a late start on the fairly long drive to the baseball game at Security Service Field and arrived in the bottom of the third inning. Like most minor-league baseball, the value here is the main draw. Great seats for $8 each, fervent fans, family fun, $3 beer (on Thursday nights), and an occasional soon-to-be, or was-last-week, major league player. Case in point: LukeVoit for the visiting Memphis Red Birds, who was recently with the big-time red birds, the St. Louis Cardinals.

Sadly the Sky Sox will be leaving Colorado Springs next year, but Jake and Stone plan several more visits between now and then. Especially when the Mets AAA team from Las Vegas comes to Colorado Springs in mid-June.

It seemed only proper to celebrate the Sky Sox victory, so our couple headed to the Rabbit Hole in downtown Colorado Springs. This underground bar/eatery is entered, mid-block, from a sidewalk-level staircase that looks something like a miniaturized subway station in dear ol' Manhattan. Busy, cozy, swank and hip, with good food (Jake had the mussels, Stone the tomato basil soup) and good drinks. Unique and worthwhile, especially late at night when much of Colorado Springs has closed up.

The start of the Contemplative/Sand Canyon Trail

The Garden of the Gods looks best at a distance

Friday, May 28, 2018 – It was but a 15 minute drive from the B&B to the Red Rock Canyon Open Space. When visitors come to visit them this summer, Jake and Stone will tell them to forget Garden of the Gods – its long, hot trails, and all its traffic -- and go instead to Red Rock Canyon. Within 10 minutes of the parking lot, our duo were touching the giant red rocks and marveling at the various views. Nine months in Colorado, having done a good deal of hiking/walking, this place is hands-down the clear winner so far. Many trails, can be crowded, but in the end it is unbeatable. Suggest the Contemplative/Sand Canyon Trail with its handy wooden benches.

Reds, Blues and Greens at Red Rock Canyon

In the 19^th century, Colorado Springs was known for its scenery, of course, but also for the healthful effects of the nearby springs. Next door to Colorado Springs, ManitouSprings is still a sort of spa town, and rates a visit. The CliffHouse at Pikes Peak, having survived bankruptcies and at least one major fire over the last 150+ years, has regained its status as the crown jewel of Manitou Springs.

Lunch here was a quiet affair in a lovely old dining room. Ahi tuna, French onion soup, crab cakes, and fish and chips were all enjoyable. Jake and Stone enjoyed wandering around the hotel's warren-like hallways which featured recent art and old photographs, finding the “safe room” with it original Hollywood-western classic safe, and peeking into the not-yet-open bar. Do take advantage of the valet parking while enjoying this historic, unpretentious hostelry.

Eschewing the ride back home via the efficient but boring I-25, our couple headed west and north into the mountains. After an ice-cream break at the trout-fishing “town” mapped as Deckers, and now without cell service, our duo took the wrong road.

After some scenic and lonely driving they ended up in a place called Foxton (which apparently had railroad service back in 1929), on a road a little wider than a modern bike path. They thought they might have a road map somewhere in the car, and indeed they did find a 2103 road atlas. (Note for younger readers: A map or atlas is a sort of hard copy of what appears on a cell phone.) The map was of some help. It showed Foxton but no road connected to it. They drove on a little bit, telling themselves it was all sorta fun, but Jake and Stone were happy to find some highway workers who directed them (left, right, gravel road, paved road) to Highway 285, from which, even they knew the trail back to Littleton.

Other Places