Thursday, May 16, 2019

Places

Staying Longer on Jekyll Island
The Brandywine Valley of Pennsylvania
2,368 Miles
Summer in Denver

2016
An Even Better Jekyll Island

2015
Jekyll Island and Vicinity
Montauk, NY
Italy -- Ravenna, Bologna, Milan and Verona
Traverse City, MI (et cetera)

2014
Stonewall Resort, West Virginia
Northern California
Jekyll Island, GA and Virginia

2013
Boston
Richmond, VA
Hudson Valley (NY)
Rochester, NY
Pittsburgh, PA

2012
Pinehurst, NC

2011
Wolfe Island, Ontario (Canada)
Port St. Lucie, FL
Kingston, Ontario (Canada)

2010
Ludlow, PA
Rochester, NY
Jekyll Island, GA

2009
South Bend, IN
Halifax, Nova Scotia (Canada)
Italy -- Pescara, Assisi, Perugia, Penne, Rome
Outer Banks, NC
Ithaca, NY 

2008
Moab, UT
Sequim, WA

 

Milwaukee Weekend


Image result for satyr and nymphs
Nymphs and Satyr

Image result for return of spring painting
Return of Spring

 
The decision had to be made quickly as the art exhibit had less than two weeks to run. “Milwaukee?” Stone was not enthusiastic. But the flight was only about two hours long. And Jake really wanted to see these paintings. Besides, Milwaukee has its own off-the-radar allure, and it was hoped that this Wisconsin city, sitting hard by mighty Lake Michigan, would prove to have other pleasures as well. It did.




Milwaukee’s motivating pleasure for Jake was an admittedly guilty one, for Jake always felt a little bit uneasy about his appreciating the paintings of William-Adolphe Bouguereau. Bouguereau’s works are highly polished, his subjects ridiculously ideal, his classical/mythological themes are often tired to the point of weariness, and finally, his works too often have a hyper focus on the female body.

His works have been generally shunned by art critics since the rise of Impressionism/Cubism/Modern Art. In fact, it could be said that Bouguereau was the epitome of everything the moderns hated about 19th century art. Besides which, he was the most popular, successful painter of the late 19th century. His paintings exacted enormous prices as they decorated the mansions of the American plutocrats who defined the Gilded Age. Art critics often look askance at commercial or popular success. Too often in art criticism, nothing fails like success. In a nutshell, Bouguereau has gone from being revered to being reviled.

Still, Jake has always found this Frenchman’s paintings to be mysteriously attractive and has long considered many of them (such as "Nymphs and Satyr, above) to be heroically outrageous. Seeing many of these works in the flesh (as it were) was a real thrill for Jake, and by the end of their 90-minute walk through the 45-painting exhibit, even Stone came to appreciate Bouguereau’s talents.



Saturday, May 11, 2019. The striking Milwaukee Art Museum is worth a visit itself. Its lakeside setting is approached by a long, suspended walkway with wonderful views. A wing-like structure hovers over the museum main entrance. On the Saturday our duo was there, the museum’s impressive, light-filled central vestibule was being readied for a black-tie wedding and looked exceedingly glamorous.

Walkway to the Milwaukee Art Museum

As Jake and Stone exited the museum at its 5 PM closing, scores of dressed-to-the-nines young people were stopping for group pictures on the museum’s steps and walkway. Several of the gowns were almost haute couture and the young guys sported colorful tuxedoes and impactful bow ties. Stone’s intuition proved correct: it was pre-prom picture time for one of Milwaukee’s high schools.

Getting Ready for a Wedding

It’s but a 15-minute walk on Wisconsin Avenue from the museum to the Pfister Hotel, This historic hotel is not unlike a museum itself, for it houses over 80 pieces of art from the 19th and early 20th century. (The collection is interesting to browse and includes several paintings by students of Bouguereau.) The hotel itself is magnificent. Built in 1893, it was one of the first all-electric hotels, was completely fireproof, and was the first hotel in the world to have individually controlled thermostats. The Pfister has genuine bellhops in proper livery, a truly professional concierge desk, a bar that drips elegance, and a large fireplace that Teddy Roosevelt reportedly adored. This is must-walk-through hotel.

Pfister Hotel Lobby
Walking out the north exit of the Pfister, Jake and Stone discovered the Mason Grill, a stylish bar and restaurant. The bar included Chopin among its vodkas. Martinis ensued. Then a jazz trio (piano, bass, drums) showed up. Things were so good our couple had to hustle their walk to dinner at the Harbor House down by Lake Michigan.

The dinner this Saturday night was as memorable as any they could remember. The Harbor House is a large, lively seafood place that is not only splashed by the lake but provides panoramic city views. Suffice it to say, the sunset was a perfect coda to a night of Robert Mondavi fume blanc, scallops, shellfish bisque, rainbow trout, Caesar salad, and key lime pie. Perfect, friendly service. The Harbor House is highly recommended.

At the Harbor House in Milwaukee
The chosen hostelry for this spur-of-the-moment Midwest adventure was the Hotel Metro, which is a block from the Pfister in downtown Milwaukee. The hotel is most notable for its overall design, which hints of Art Deco. Jake and Stone’s room was big and pleasantly stylish. But it hit a homerun with Jake when he saw the two-person bathtub. Just right for his person-and-a-half.

Sunday May 12, 2019. Café Benelux is likely crowded on any Sunday morning, but on this Mother’s Day the crowd included several family groups. Luckily Jake and Stone were quickly offered “a small, high top” which worked fine. The vibe here is all Belgium and the Netherlands, in both the offered food and brews, except perhaps for the Milwaukee Bloody Mary.

This drink, which is apparently an iconic brunch beverage in this neck of the Northwoods, seemed to have a variety of gastronomic accoutrements: is that not only celery, but a pickle, an olive, and bacon?  Yes. Another jar went past our duo’s table that sported a pickle, a lemon slice, and a skewered single shrimp. One patron was apparently a minimalist, just celery. But the stalk was big enough to be used as a cudgel should such necessity arise.

The described Belgian waffle (“using bread dough” said the waitress) was too good to pass up and proved to live up to its billing. Jake had a mimosa. It was served in a large, fluted glass and was without any accessories.  


City Market in Milwaukee
Across the street from the Café Benelux is Milwaukee’s City Market. The nearly 20 food vendors’ offerings range from pita sandwiches to olive oils, but the stars of the show are the West Allis Cheese & Sausage Shoppe and the St. Paul Fish Company. The array of offered fish is fun just to look at, and the offerings of cheese is truly astounding. Stone noted a 4 oz piece of 12-year-aged cheddar priced at a cool $36.  

On the River Cruise Out onto Lake Michigan
Jake and Stone walked the Milwaukee River Walk path toward the riverside dock for the Milwaukee Boat Line where they took a cruise down the Milwaukee River and out a bit into Lake Michigan. The weather all weekend was cold and usually windy, and our duo made up a good percentage of the few passengers on board this clear but windy Sunday afternoon. The cruise was hardly spectacular, but it was interesting to hear of Milwaukee’s history and see this truly American city from out on the lake. Surely the cruise is crowded on a summer’s day.

On the RiverWalk in Milwaukee
Sunday night dinner in Milwaukee is apparently not a tradition, as Jake and Stone could not immediately find a place to eat. They did finally locate a gastro pub named the Rumpus Room. The night was cold with an increasing wind so they took Lyft down to North Water Street. The Rumpus Room proved to be better than its name. European in atmosphere, it was quite busy, and Jake and Stone each pulled up a stool at the large and well-stocked bar. Stone went local, with a Buffalo Trace Manhattan (Buffalo Trace Single Barrel Bourbon as a base) while Jake stayed true to Poland and had another Chopin martini. Both were eminently good.

(In fact, the cherry in Stone’s Manhattan was so notable she asked the bartender to give her the name. Rather than write an old-fashioned note, Stone took a picture of the jar.)

The food menu was surprisingly diverse. Jake had a Cuban sandwich (OK, but nothing to write Fidel Castro about) while Stone had a tasty plate of Korean short ribs. Jake and stone have always appreciated a walk after dinner. The wind had lessened. They walked back to the hotel and the night was done.

"Happy Days" in Milwaukee

Monday, May 13, 2019. With a flight not leaving till early afternoon, our couple walked to breakfast at a place called Brunch. The room was big and bright, blue and yellow, and without a lot of customers. However, the coffee was hot and good, Stone’s yogurt parfait was plentiful, and Jake had no complaints about his French Toast Stix. A quick and cheap ($15.75) Lyft ride to the Milwaukee Airport ended the weekend.



Both Jake and Stone were surprised at how much they enjoyed Milwaukee, besides the art. It was nice to be able to walk nearly everywhere. It seems likely that somewhere down the road they will visit again, perhaps to take in Brewers’ ballgame, and certainly bicycle some of the 14-mile Hank Aaron Trail. And it’s only about 90 minutes to Chicago… maybe explore more of Wisconsin… maybe drop down the lake to see the Cubs… maybe have some homemade dinners featuring the fish and cheese offerings at the Milwaukee Public Market. Oh, and next time get a bloody Mary with some bacon in it!






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Monday, February 11, 2019

Two Golden Isles off Georgia


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Hello Drone!

Previous Jake-and-Stone travel blogs have all been pretty much day-by-day descriptions of their vacations. But a day-by-day blog logging 28 days (January 1-28)  is clearly TMI. A blog is meant to be informal and conversational.  In short, no blog should become a bog. Hence the new format for this report on their 28-day vacation to Jekyll Island and St. Simons, Georgia, complete with helpful (hopefully) segment headings:

  • Overview
  • Home Sweet Condo
  • Golf
  • Birding (by Stone)
  • Biking and Walking
  • Food and Drinks
  • Six Degrees of Separation
  • The Drone
  • Historical Visits
The Wharf restaurant on the Jekyll River



Overview
The wind-aided flight into Jacksonville was only three hours from Denver. The Jacksonville airport was a dream to negotiate, as was the car rental process.  They stopped at a Chili's for lunch, then got on I-95 north for a quick trip north to Jekyll Island. Since their last visit to Jekyll two years ago, the island had been sideswiped by two hurricanes and battered by a tropical storm. It was actually tropical storm Irma that did most of the damage. It did not take long to view Irma’s effects.

Not ALL of Tropical Storm Irma's Affects
Have Been Fixed  on Jekyll Island

On this trip our duo was joined for the first four days by Sweetness! – their daughter. After checking into their 3 BR place at Villas by the Sea, all three rushed out to the nearest wooden stairway for a look at the Atlantic Ocean and perhaps take a quick walk near the lapping waves if the tide was low. But Irma had rendered the previous immediate beach access impossible. All the Villas property’s stairways leading down from the dunes to the ocean had been destroyed. On top of that, as a barrier against future devastating storms, an eight-foot wall of large rocks laterally dissected the beach. But when Sweetness! smiled broadly and slightly gasped at the view of the seemingly infinite ocean, blessings were counted.

In general, Jekyll was much the same, and there was evidence of continued commercial growth. The new luxurious Jekyll Ocean Club was finished and seemed to be prospering. Yet another new building, Home2 Suites by Hilton, was in mid-construction. The shopping area, Beach Village, had added some new flower plantings, and several previously unoccupied retail spaces were now filled. A new restaurant, The Wharf, had replaced the storm ravished Latitude 31 and Rah Bar overlooking the Jekyll River. Only eight of the new and very upscale “The Cottages” remained unsold. And finally, the new housing development down southward on the island –Ocean Oaks – was reportedly selling briskly as well.

Over their 28-day stay, the island seemed more crowded (relatively) on the weekends than in the past. And there were certainly more island events – from a marathon race, to a blue grass festival, to a tai chi retreat – than in previous years. But the general relaxed tone of Jekyll, and its offerings of beaches, forest walks, extensive biking, affordable golf, and amateur birding remained in place.

Home Sweet Condo
When they first came to Jekyll years ago, Jake and Stone had started out renting a cheap 2BR unit in a duplex. As their stays in Jekyll lengthened, they moved up to 3BR houses, but on their last trip – Jan 2017 – they rented a 3BR, baclonies condo at Villas by Sea, and this time did the same, but this time for a full month. For the price, this has proved to be unbeatable.


Master Bedroom Balcony



From the Condo Parking Lot
Such a rental also includes weekly maid service, which was a welcomed treat. The Internet service (not secure) was fast and always reliable, each BR and the LR had a TV, and the lack of neighbors (slow season) was enjoyable. The Villas are at the north end of the island, which provides an especially tranquil setting, but it is a 4-mile bike ride to food/drink/shopping. Often as not, our couple drove into “town.”

Golf
Jekyll offers 65 holes of golf. There are three 18-holers and on one 9-holer. All three 18-hole layouts are reasonably priced, “user-friendly,” but feature few memorable holes. Still, the major golf facility does a brisk business, and, as Jake’s Aussie mother might have said, “is lousy with Canadians,” which is hardly a bad thing, Canadians being generally among the best people on earth.

Early Morning on Pine Lakes
Golf Course in Jekyll Island, GA

Stone Shows Jake How on Great Dunes Golf Course

Stone Beneath Favorite Tree on Great Dunes


The true draw of these three courses is their setting. All three are carved out of Jekyll’s native maritime forest, so there is not a car, house, condo, highway, or railroad anywhere in view. Only waterfowl, an occasional gator (on a very warm day), and towering pine trees ever come into view or threaten one’s attempt to find an errant golf ball.

When Jake recently graduated from “Senior” (55+) thru "Medicare Eligible" (65+) “Old” (70 and hoping for +), he graduated from the grueling 18-hole outing to the more sensible 9-hole, two hours of golf. Luckily for him, Jekyll’s best (and most challenging) 9 holes are at the historic (19th century roots) Great Dunes course. GD is some distance from the major golf vicinity and within sight (as at hole #5) of the ocean. GD has the added advantage of being lightly attended, especially early in the day, and lets one play for under $20, handcart included. Note: the women’s league plays every Tuesday morning starting at 9 AM.

A Beautiful View Doesn't Guarantee a Beautiful Golf Shot

Of the nine or ten times Jake played GD this trip, his best round was on an especially cool morning when accompanied by a non-playing Stone. (On previous trips to Jekyll, Stone also played this course, but now that our duo must fly from Denver, bringing one set of clubs along is trouble enough, thank you very much.) Playing with Stone along always enhances Jake’s game, and this outing proved to be his best. Stone did some putting on her own – slyly showing Jake how to read the green – and they both enjoyed the varied walk, and were kept busy by looking out for new birds to add the Stone’s “Little List of Birds.”

Birding (by Stone)
Jekyll Island is a destination for serious birders, but the less serious find enjoyment here as well. One of their constant pleasures over Jake and Stone’s previous visits has been to keep a look out for birds not likely seen in Jersey (previously) or Colorado (currently). On this trip Stone bought the handbook, “Birds of Georgia,” by Stan Tekiela, and started keeping an actual list of birds she saw (often aided by a handy spyglass) while exploring the island. It is presented, with her notes, below:


Great Egret
White Ibis

Great BlueHeron
Western Sandpiper  -- cute, numerous, fun to watch
Anhinga --  aka, the Snake Bird (weird “song”)
Great Egret – majestic as always
Great Blue Heron – always beautifully graceful
American Bald Eagle –  as usual, down by the river
a hawk of some sort – too far away, brownish
Brown Pelican – love that bird!
White Ibis  -- never saw before, now see here & there
Boat-tailed Grackle – also new
Cardinal – miss seeing this out in Colorado
Chick-a-Dee – seems to be everywhere
Downey Woodpecker – smaller than at home?
Kestrel -- never saw before, rather rare I was told, raptor
Hooded Merganser – like on our pond in Littleton
Little Blue Heron -- non-breeding, perhaps?
Belted Kingfisher – on a telephone wire!, never saw before
Black-bellied Plover – maybe seen 2 yrs ago?


Biking and Walking
Jake, Stone and Sweetness! all rented their bikes from at Jekyll Wheels, a new bike shop run by the Jekyll Hotel. This shop is a wonderful addition the island. Lots of bikes, of different types, nicely stored and efficiently serviced. Our trio all rented the 7-speed model. It is expensive to rent here, and there are other rental options on the island (including at the Villas), but if you are going to bike a lot it is likely worthwhile to go with Jekyll Wheels. A good bike trail map is included.

Over 20 Miles of Paved Bike Paths

The more than 20 miles of paved bike paths is a major draw for Jake and Stone. Biking anywhere on Jekyll is good, and lots of people of all biking experience enjoy it. Two favorite trails:


1. Starting at the Villas, and going north along Beachview Drive, then into the Clam Creek Picnic Area. The marsh area here just about always has birds to see and glimpses of Driftwood Beach are on the right. Down Riverview Drive, stop to visit the Horton House. Then back southward on Riverview‘s curving trail through what Jake and Stone call the Live-Oak Cathedral, festooned by Spanish Moss. Continuing down Riverview past the tiny airport (elevation 12 feet, says the sign), and the island’s three little churches, the rider ends up in the Jekyll Historic District with its famous hotel and millionaire “cottages.” In fact, biking through the District’s grounds is a great way to see a lot of what is there.

Well Maintained Wooden Bridges with Views
2. From the Villas south on Beachview Drive, with its variety of residential private homes. The bike path turns toward the ocean, and for the next 2 miles the sea is always on one’s left. Stopping at the Beach Village for food and/or drinks is always a good idea. Early-rising bikers can enjoy breakfast at the new Sunrise Grille, where Stone had a nice Avocado Toast and Fruit breakfast one morning. There is a Dairy Queen as well beyond the little traffic circle.  

Over the years Jake and Stone have biked wherever the spirit took them and have never been disappointed. With one exception. Once they biked too far southward and found themselves heading home into a unrelating wind. They have since learned to start any bike trip into the wind so the trip back is wind-aided.

Walking on Jekyll is bountiful as well. Across the street from the Villas is a little side road that leads to Horton Pond. Its gazebo is a good place to look for birds and the occasional alligators and turtles that sun themselves on the pond’s little wooden “island.” Just discovered this year is the Tupelo Trail, which starts on the side of Horton Pond. This less than-a-mile loop provided Jake and Stone with a feeling of adventure as it wound through the palmettos and the other more looming trees of this bit of maritime forest. Do walk it.

Gators and Turtles in Horton Pond seen from the Tupelo Trail
Sweetness! had a terrific solo walk on the famously photogenic Driftwood Beach one morning. That morning was the warmest of the month (the high that day was in the 70s), and Sweetness! enjoyed walking barefoot in the lapping waves and listening to her latest play list. She spotted what she thought might be dolphins. Running parallel to dolphins, she steadily stalked them down the beach, finally getting a photo or two. Such sightings are not common, which only enhances the thrill for anyone lucky enough to see them frolicking in the Atlantic.

Dolphins Enjoying the Ocean Near Driftwood Beach.

Or do the dolphins, like most tourists, come to see the scenery?


Driftwood Beach
Jake and Stone -- or even more often, Stone by herself -- took more than a few long beach walks. The photogenic Driftwood Beach is always a good choice. More than once or twice over the years our couple has come across happy newlyweds posing for pictures. On this trip, most of our couple’s beach walking took place at Glory Beach, which always seems to stretch for miles with hardly anyone else around.

Along Glory Beach, with Cumberland Island in Distance
Glory Beach is so named because it provided the beach scenes for the dramatic conclusion of the 1989 movie “Glory,” with Denzel Washington and Matthew Broderick. Indeed, when the movie was on TV on Martin Luther King day, Jake and Stone watched it and marveled at how familiar the beach looked. It was quite exciting.

Glory Beach also provides good shell hunting. Though this year’s crop of findings didn't include anything like the large Whelks found previously, Stone and Jake (but mostly Stone) still amassed a beautiful collection of various shells that Stone curated and kept by the condo’s sink.

Stone Selects Sea Shells by the Sea Shore
Glory Beach was also the scene for the one sad event of their vacation. On this day they noticed a group of people and a what seemed like a truck, a good distance down the beach. The activity centered around a dwarf sperm whale that had been washed up on the beach. The environmental officials said that this type of whale is normally 60-70 miles out at sea, so hopes of saving it were virtually nil. They euthanized the little whale (about the size of a dolphin) and then took him away for an autopsy.

The dwarf sperm whale is taken away
in hopes of finding what went wrong.

Food and Drink
Breakfast – The Waffle House in Brunswick provided Jake and Stone with its usual southern charm, and damn good pecan waffles. However, it was in Savannah (90 mins north on I-95) that they enjoyed their two most memorable meals.

When the forecast is for rain in Jekyll, Jake and Stone often head into Savannah. January 4 was rainy and the last day of vacation for Sweetness!, so it worked perfectly as a day to show her this captivating southern town.

Sweetness, Jake and Stone enjoying a rainy Savannah, Georgia.



Perhaps because of the rain, they were able to get a table right away, just before one o’clock, at the Collins Quarter, a much-awarded, fairly new (2014) restaurant on Bull Street in the heart of Savannah’s historic district. Brunch here was one of the best meals of their entire trip. The service was friendly, informative and efficient. Each dish – Shortrib Hash for Stone, Biscuits-and-Gravy Brunch for Sweetness!, and Eggs Benedict Brunch for Jake – was seemingly perfect. The Champagne Cocktail(s!), Mimosa Drunken Berry, and Espresso Mint Julep were delightful. This is a place not to be missed.

Coming back from Savannah, our trio was treated to a
post-rain spectacular sunset, captured here while at 65 MPH on I-95 south.
The following weekend Jake and Stone headed back to Savannah. The wait for your food at the Maple Street Biscuit Company can be along one, but then, they are making the biscuits right before your eyes as you wait. The unorthodox nature of Savannah’s cultural vibe was evident at this busy breakfast café with its heterogenous crowd, window seating, and upstairs balcony.

At Maple Street, one is asked to give not your name for pick-up, but the name of someone you would like to have breakfast with. So as one waits, the cashier calls out “Beyoncé,” “Tom Hanks,” “Pablo Picasso,” “Michelle Obama” and the like. Rather entertaining. Pressed to come up with a name for their order pickup, our couple was momentarily flummoxed, but Jake’s Jekyll-vacation books included a bio on one of his heroes. Jake was somewhat disappointed that not one raised even a single eyebrow arose when it was announced that Winston Churchill’s meal was ready.

Stone claimed her dish The Iron Goat: “Flaky biscuit, goat cheese and sautéed spinach,” was maybe the best 636 calories she ever ate. Jake’s “House-made vanilla waffle with asiago cheese and pecanwood smoked bacon baked in, topped with honey butter & Bissell Family Farms real maple syrup,” was easily worthy of its elaborate description, as well as the resultant 816 calories. Maple Street is a Savannah must-do.

The Yellow Deli in Brunswick, Georgia,
where communal living makes for a fine restaurant.
The other breakfast of note was in Brunswick at the Yellow DeliThe food here was very good, and the setting -- sort of 1960s-Hippy, cozy, lots of wood, art on the walls -- most unique. Turns out there is a number of these “Yellow Delis” throughout the US. They are all operated by a religious communal group usually called the Twelve Tribes which emerged from the Jesus Movement of the early 1970s. (There is, of course, a Yellow Deli in Boulder (CO), Jake’s hometown, a famous Hippy enclave in the 1960s.) Bottom line: good food, earnest people, and exposure to a different view on how to live. All at breakfast.

Lunch
Generally, Jake and Stone are not big on eating lunch out, but when they went grocery shopping at Harris Teeter on St. Simons, scheduling lunch worked out well both times.

Last year Southern Living magazine rated Southern Soul BBQ as the best BBQ in the South. Wow. Though hardly BBQ experts, Jake and Stone saw no reason to disagree after having sampled three sandwiches: BBQ Cuban, Southern Soul Pork, and Burnt Tips. Jake was happily surprised to see Coors Banquet among the many available cans of both obscure and well-known breweries. (Craft beers having taken over the beer world, this delightful old-time brew is not easy to find at home, in Littleton, CO – but 25 minutes from the brewery in Golden!)

Southern Soul BBQ on St. Simons Island, George
Besides the food, the atmosphere at Southern Soul is remarkable. This place is a true BBQ joint. Housed in an old gas station, it features ancient wooden tables and chairs, grab-yourself silverware in a beer glass, “napkins” from a roll of brown paper towels, and advertising signs from long-gone companies. One half expects to see the Dukes of Hazard’s car in the parking lot. Everyone seems friendly and downhome, and it is not unusual to overhear whispers of golf pro Davis Love (who lives on SSI) getting sandwiches to-go last week. But then he is one of the owners. Another don’t-miss place.


Dinner
St. Simons Island provided the best dinner surprise of the trip. Before going to see “The Upside” at Island Cinemas, Jake and Stone had dinner at Certified Burgers andBeverage in the same mall as the movie theater. As the place was nearly empty at 5:30, they sat at the bar and looked around. “When what to their wondering eyes should appear,” not tiny reindeer, but a big bottle of Chopin Vodka. A post-Christmas miracle.

Two martinis, a bottle of Stella Artois (for Jake), and two burgers: For Stone -- The ‘Burgh: (beef patty, mayo, chipped ham, provolone, cole slaw, fries) and for Jake -- The American: (beef patty, “certified” sauce, lettuce tomato, pickle). Maybe it’s because they do their own butchery in-house, but whatever, both burgers were superior. The Yelpers love this place – 142 reviews and 4 ½ stars – and so did our twosome. 

Also off-island, this time in Savannah, the Green Truck Pub, about a 10 minute Lyft ride from downtown, provided Jake with another good burger. The “Hot Rod” was described as a burger “pimped out with cheese and bacon.” Stone and Sweetness! both enjoyed their Green Greeks salads. Neither was pimped out but were still delicious

An unassuming building houses this unassuming pub with its emphasis on brews, wines, burgers, salads, and soups done with local twists. The menu mentions that their fries come “with house-made ketchup. That’s like twice the homemade-ness!” while the chicken breast is “Humane-Certified,” whatever that means. You get the idea. This is pub run by people, not a company. They don’t do reservations, which seems only proper. Do go, for the flavor – of both the food and the ambiance.

Back on Jekyll: The storms over the last two years so damaged the restaurant called Latitude 31and Rah Bar that the owners sold what was left to the Jekyll Island Club Resort (aka: the old, historic hotel). The hotel took advantage of the site’s location, with its great views of the Jekyll River and Sidney Lanier Bridge, and opened a new establishment – The Wharf. It sits on the wharf that used to service the millionaires – Goodyear, Rockefeller, J.P. Morgan, and their kith and kin – when they came to their private island retreat over 100 years ago.

Jake and Stone tried it out for dinner. Winner, winner, seafood dinner! The drinks (Rusty Nail and Manhattan) were well mixed, the Crab Chowder, Seafood Gumbo, and Fish & Chips were tasty. (All the seafood dishes they had down in Jekyll and its environs  -- fish, shrimp, crab, etc. – were always perfectly prepared.) Sitting right on the river and looking west, the sunset views are terrific. With an expansive outside deck, our couple could only imagine how crowded the Wharf would be in the summer. A sure winner.

TheDriftwood Bistro sits on the grounds of Villas by the Sea, but it’s not only its convenience that has Jake and Stone eating there at least twice every year. It’s the Shrimp and Grits. And the Crab Bisque. And the friendly service. And most certainly, the fact that a bottle of Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc is only $17 (it was $18 on sale! this week at Harris Teeter on St. Simons Island). And customers can take the not-empty bottle home in a paper bag. “The Bistro” is a longtime Jekyll tradition of many longtime island visitors.

Sitting at the bar at the Westin Hotel's Harry's Lounge also proved to be a good spot for food. One of the best meals Jake and Stone had was all appetizers: Lobster Bisque, Fried Calamari, Grilled Romaine, a side of Shrimp, and one House Salad.

For their anniversary meal Jake and Stone went to St. Simons again, this time to the King and Prince Beach and Golf Resort. The name pretty much says it all. It dates from 1935 (the spacious lobby is very 1930s) and was noted for dancing to the era’s big bands. In the years since, it has been renovated and expanded. It now sports a Historic Hotels of America plaque at its entrance, and is still redolent of the luxurious side of America’s 1930s and ‘40s.

Sitting at the bar – a good way to have a waiter always handy – our celebrating duo had the day’s “Coastal Catch,” which featured something called a Wreckfish, and a Grouper Sandwich. A Chopin Martini and couple glasses of Kendall Jackson Chardonnay rounded out and good dinner in a hotel that encourages tête-à-têtes.



Drinks
Taking advantage of the increased number of watering holes on this bit of land surrounded by water, and as a public service to the handful of people who get this far in this blog, Jake and Stone did some bar hoping.

Best bars: The Westin Hotel, the Wharf and Certified Burgers, in that order. Certified had Chopin vodka and a good lineup of beers. The Wharf is without not only Chopin, but any member of the potato vodka family. But it has a good selection of wines, good bartenders, and a killer view. The Westin not only has Chopin, a long bar that is big enough without being too big, and a nice sitting area, but great service as well. When Jake and Stone decided one night to split a Martini, the mixologist split the drink into two glasses. Our duo developed a “bar friendship” with their favorite bartender Bryan.


Bryan (on the right) at Harry's Lounge at the Westin Hotel

Disappointments: The Jekyll Ocean Club. A wonderfully stylish bar and restaurant area, but the drinks were below average, and the bar stools strangely uncomfortable. The Hampton Inn had neither Johnny Walker Black or Red. “After all,” said the barkeep, “we’re pretty much a beach bar.”

Six Degrees of Separation
Part of the fun of such a long vacation is meeting people from here and there, and then often sometimes discovering startling connections and coincidences.

During the first few days, when Sweetness! made our adventurers a threesome, they had dinner at Tortuga Jacks on Beachview Drive, which features Mexican food and an outdoor tiki bar with a wide ocean view. It was a cool evening with less than 15 customers, but one of the fellows at the (inside) bar disclosed that he graduated from East Brunswick (NJ) High School, four years later than Sweetness! (He did not, however, take Italian classes.)

At the bar at the Jekyll Hotel, the convivial bar conversation soon revealed that one of the other four bar patrons went to high school in the same Brooklyn neighborhood as Stone, and lived in “the next town over,” in Queens.

Jake, Stone and their "Honeymoon Baby"

Having pre-dinner drinks one twilight at the Wharf, our duo met a young woman whose birthday was the same as our duo’s anniversary date. Oh, wait. She was actually born on the day Jake and Stone were married. She would be 39 in two days, on January 26. She jokingly termed herself “the honeymoon baby,” and they had the bartender take a picture.


The Drone
The somewhat curious word “drone” derives from the bumble bee. Specifically, the drone bumble bee, which unlike the “worker” bee is deemed to have a sort of mindless existence. Drones don’t defend the hive in times of trouble, nor do they help with the hive’s maintenance. Their sole purpose is to impregnate the queen, a task which apparently lacks the fun presumed to be enjoyed by other insects, and certainly by most nearly all humans. Earlier termed “a remotely controlled vehicle,” today’s drone is viewed as a sort of slave, with no will of its own. No doubt, its buzzing flight was another reason the “drone” label has stuck.

Seen in action, the drone is indeed like some high-flying super bumble bee. When Jake and Stone first spotted one in the sky they weren’t sure what it was. Turning a corner in the bike path adjacent to the Jekyll River, all was explained when they saw three men standing on the wooden bike path bridge, each staring at an electronic device.

The Operator of the Drone.


To watch the drone in action and witness all its capabilities – especially its photographic power – was striking to witness. The GDNR guys were good enough to have the drone take a picture of everyone (which they later emailed to our couple), and Jake and Stone enjoyed finding out about their interesting, and vital, environmental work.



Drone's Eye View of Work to be Done


They were all from the Georgia Department of Natural Resources. They were using the drone to monitor the removal of a tugboat that had run aground on a sand bar in the river. Besides the two guys flying the drone, another one was constantly checking a tablet computer to monitor other aircraft in the area. (Jekyll has its own little airport, and there is a bigger, busier one on St. Simons.)

To watch the drone in action and witness all its capabilities – especially its photographic power – was striking to witness. The GDNR guys were good enough to have the drone take a picture of everyone (which they later emailed to our couple), and Jake and Stone enjoyed finding out about their interesting, and vital, environmental work.

Two days later, when Jake and Stone biked the same path, all the cranes, barges and other equipment was gone. Everything on the river and beyond looked beautiful once again.

Historical Visits
 One of the best reasons to travel is visit historical places. History puts our lives in perspective. Not the least of which is that soon we will all be history ourselves. All the more reason to get out and travel!

It’s about a 30-minute drive from Jekyll to the historic Hofwyl-Broadfield Plantation in Brunswick (GA) via Route 17, sometimes called the Coastal Highway. Which BTW, provides an interesting road trip up the coast from Florida to Virginia, if one is so inclined.

Hofwyl-Broadfield is an old rice plantation that is a Georgia Historical site and worth a visit. Jake and Stone especially liked the spacious grounds with some truly old Live Oaks – we’re talking maybe 400-800 years old! – and the antebellum Low Country house. The house is filled with original antique furniture and one of the largest collections in America of the striking “blue white” Cantonese china.

The house was lived in until 1973, so the house itself, and the surrounding grounds and buildings, have an interesting, eclectic collection of “stuff,” dating from 18th century furniture, to Civil War memorabilia, to the 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (the last car owned by Ophelia Dent, who willed the site to Georgia when died) that sits in wooden garage.


Throughout the 17th century, and into the 18th, the land around the Altamaha River near Darien (GA) was coveted by both the colonizing British and Spanish. Fort King George was built in 1721 as part of the English plan to dominate the area.

The original fort is long gone, but drawings and plans (found in London) for the fort have allowed for an authentic reproduction that is quite interesting to explore. The fortress is a triangular affair with moats, palisades, barracks, and a blockhouse.

The Blockhouse at Fort George near Darien, Georgia
The three-story blockhouse includes stairs that are properly rickety, slots for muskets, openings for cannon fire, and gives one a feel of what it must have like hundreds of years ago. It is a heavenly place for young boys (and girls, now, perhaps?) to run around in. The museum and gift shop even sports wooden rifles that young visitors can use to enhance their re-enactments.

From Inside the Blockhouse.
There is also a nice, short nature trail through the woods that passes an old pond-side cottage, some lovely marsh views, and a graveyard for the many soldiers who died there, not from combat but the ravishes of 18th century diseases.


January 29, 2019
A month’s vacation seems a long vacation. But many folks Jake and Stone met in Jekyll were there for several months, and had been doing so for years. So maybe this trip was more of a "long getaway" rather than a vacation. As has been said -- "Whatever." It was terrific.

Next year will be number 40 for our married couple, and they hope to do something celebratory back East – likely in Manhattan – to mark the event in January. This will likely impact the usual Jekyll getaway. Aren’t they lucky to have such problems?